Kaapuni Lhasa Kailash

Har Har Shambho! ʻO ka ʻāina make ʻole o ka Haku Pahsupatinath e ʻoliʻoli nei iā ʻoe i kēia lā. E hui aku ka hui Himalayan Adventure iā ʻoe ma ka TIA Arrival Gate, kahi, ma hope o ka hālāwai ʻana a me ke aloha ʻana, e hoʻoneʻe mākou iā ʻoe i ka hōkele no kāu hōʻoia a hoʻomaha.

Ke hōʻuluʻulu ʻia nā malihini a pau o kā mākou huakaʻi Lhasa Kailash ma Kathmandu, e hāʻawi kā mākou alakaʻi iā ʻoe i ka ʻike e pili ana i nā papahana, nā meaʻai, a me nā hoʻonohonoho huakaʻi.

Ma hope o ka ʻaina kakahiaka kakahiaka nui, e haʻalele pū mākou no ka huakaʻi huakaʻi o Kathmandu City. ʻO ka hana i hoʻolālā ʻia i kēia lā no ʻoe ke kiʻi i ka darshana nui o ka luakini ʻo Budhanilkantha (Sleeping Lord Vishnu Temple) ma lalo pono o ka malu o Shivapuri Hill, he 9.7 km wale nō ka mamao mai Kathmandu.

A laila, e hahai ʻia ka huakaʻi i ka mandala nui o Boudhanath, kona mau hale mōneka liʻiliʻi a puni, a me kahi piʻi 365-step i kahi puʻu velvety ʻōmaʻomaʻo o Swayambhunath.

Ke hoʻomaʻemaʻe ʻia e nā maka ʻike āpau o ke Akua Buddha, e hoʻi mākou i ko mākou hōkele e hauʻoli i kahi manawa hoʻomaha ma ke kūlanakauhale.

Ua hoʻolālā mākou i kahi hana laʻa iā ʻoe ma ka luakini hoʻāno ʻo Pashupatinath, kahi kahua me ke ʻano maoli o nā pōmaikaʻi a ka Haku Shiva. Ma kāna kumu, e komo ikaika mākou i kahi hui Rudravishek Puja a Lord Shiva a pule e hāʻawi iā mākou i kāna mau hoʻomaikaʻi no kā mākou huakaʻi Lhasa Kailash.

A laila e hoʻolōʻihi mākou i kā mākou kipa ʻana i ka Pashupatinath paʻakikī nui a nānā i ka hana kuni kuʻuna ʻē aʻe ma Aryaghat ma ka ʻaoʻao o ka muliwai Bagmati.

ʻO Guheshwori Temple (Goddess Sati Temple, the first late consort of Lord Shiva) aia nō hoʻi ma kā mākou papa huakaʻi huakaʻi, e waiho ana ma ka hale paʻakikī o Pashupati.

E hoʻi mākou i kēia manawa no kā mākou hoʻomākaukau hope loa no ka huakaʻi huakaʻi o kā mākou huakaʻi huakaʻi Lhasa Kailash 16 lā huakaʻi. E nānā mākou i nā lako a pau, a hiki iā ʻoe ke kūʻai a hoʻolimalima paha i nā mea hana āu e makemake ai ma Thamel.

E loaʻa nō hoʻi iā mākou ka visa hui Kina, e hele mai ana ma ka pepa keʻokeʻo me ka palapala Kina. E moe i ka wanaʻao no kā mākou huakaʻi Lhasa mua loa i ka lā ʻapōpō.

I ke kakahiaka nui loa, he lele mauna pōkole loa e lawe iā mākou i Tibet, he ʻāina Himalaya nani a kupaianaha me nā kiʻekiʻe he 7000 a me 8000 m he nui e ʻālohilohi ana i ka lewa.

I ka mua, ʻo Makalu, Kanchenjunga, a me ka mauna ʻo Everest e ʻaihue i kou nānā ʻana, a ma hope aku, ʻo ka ʻāina ākea ākea o Tibet. ʻO Gonggar International Airport ma Lhasa e hoʻokipa maikaʻi iā mākou, kahi e hui pū ai mākou me kā mākou hui Tibet.

Ma hope o nā ʻoihana mokulele e pono ai, e hoʻokele ka poʻe holo moku i ko mākou hale noho ma Central Lhasa kūlanakauhale, ma kahi o 60 km mamao mai ke kahua mokulele.

ʻO nā kahawai keʻokeʻo kapu o ka muliwai Brahmaputra (Yarlung Tsangpo) e alakaʻi i ke ala ma waena o nā wahi neoneo Tibetan. ʻO ka hopena, e piʻi aʻe i ka ea Lhasa maʻemaʻe, e ʻike mākou i nā hiʻohiʻona nani o ka Hale Aliʻi ʻo Potala ma luna o ka pali kiʻekiʻe.

ʻAʻohe hana kaʻapuni i hoʻolālā ʻia no kēia lā, no laila ke komo mākou i ko mākou lumi hōkele, e nānā mākou i ka hoʻomaha a me ka hiamoe. He mea nui ka hoʻomaʻamaʻa ʻana i ka ea maloʻo a hou o Lhasa ma mua o ka huakaʻi nui ʻana i ka lā ʻapōpō.

ʻO ka mea a mākou i hoʻolālā ai iā ʻoe i kēia lā ma kā mākou huakaʻi Lhasa Kailash e kahaha iā ʻoe a e hoʻomaopopo iā ʻoe i ke kumu i pāpā ʻia ai ʻo Lhasa.

ʻO ka mea mua i kā mākou hana i hoʻolālā ʻia, ʻo ia ka kipa ʻana i ka icon Tibet, ʻo Potala Palace, i lilo i hale hoʻoilo maikaʻi no nā Dalai Lamas i nā kenekulia.

Na ka Dalai Lama 5 i kūkulu ʻia kēia hale aliʻi ma luna o ka 130 m kiʻekiʻe o ka pali ʻulaʻula o Marpo Ri e nānā ana i ke kūlanakauhale holoʻokoʻa o Lhasa. He keʻokeʻo a ʻulaʻula kona mau hale aliʻi i kapa ʻia ʻo Potrang Karpo a me Potrang Marpi.

Ua hana ʻia ʻo Potrang Karpo i ka makahiki 1845, a ʻo Potrang Marpi i ka makahiki 1694, a hui pū ʻia lākou he 1000 lumi, e hana ana i ka hale aliʻi nui loa ma Lhasa. Ma loko, hiki ke ʻike ʻia ke aʻo ʻana o ka Dalai Lama, nā wahi kūʻokoʻa, nā kiʻi kālai Buddhist helu ʻole, nā kiʻi, 698 kiʻi pena ma ka paia, a me ʻumi tausani o nā ʻōwili pena.

Ma hope aʻe, loaʻa iā mākou ka luakini mau loa ʻo Jokhang e kū kiʻekiʻe ma Lhasa no nā makahiki he 700. ʻO nā kihi kahiko loa o kēia luakini i kauoha ʻia e Songtsen Gampo no ka hanohano o kāna wahine ʻo Bhrikuti, he Kamāliʻiwahine Nepali nani.

Me nā huila pule nui a me nā keʻena, e ʻaihue ke kiʻi ola nui ʻo Shakyamuni i ko mākou maka. Ma waho o ka luakini, hiki iā mākou ke ʻike i ka poʻe haipule Buddhist e hele ana a e oli ana i nā mantra ma ke alanui Barkhor, a ma ke ahiahi e huli i ka mākeke ʻo Barkhor.

ʻO ka mea a mākou e mālama ai iā ʻoe i kēia lā, he kipa i Drepung a me Sera Monasteries. Ua kūkulu ʻia ka Monastery Drepung e nā kauoha kiʻekiʻe a Chojey Tashi Palden, he haumāna a Tsong Khapa, i ka makahiki 1416 a ua ʻike ʻo ia i nā manawa luku paʻakikī i ka wā o ka hoʻokahuli Kina.

Ma mua, ua hoʻohana ʻo ia i ka hale ma luna o ʻumi tausani mau mōneka a aia i kona kiʻekiʻe ma ke ʻano he kikowaena hoʻonaʻauao Buddhist koʻikoʻi. I kēia manawa, ua hōʻemi ʻia ka helu ma kahi o 500 mau mōneka, akā ke kū nei ʻo ia kekahi o nā pou nui o Tibet.

Ke nānā mākou i loko o kēia hale kupaianaha, a loaʻa ka ʻike ʻike o nā mōneka a me kā lākou mau haumāna, e hele mākou e ʻike i kekahi o nā hoʻopaʻapaʻa hoihoi ma Sera Monastery.

Aia ma lalo o ka malu malu o ka puʻu o Phurba Chok Ri i ka nui o Tatipu, ʻo ka monastery kahi e noho ai ma kahi o 3000 mau mōneka a me nā haumāna.

ʻO Sakya Yeshe, kekahi o ka poʻe hahai o Tsong Khapa, i hoʻomaka i kāna hana. Me ka nui o nā moʻomanaʻo Buddhist ʻoiaʻiʻo, ʻoi aku ka kaulana o ka monastery no ka hoʻopaʻapaʻa noʻonoʻo a me ka hoʻomana.

I kēia manawa e lawe mai mākou i ka hopena i kā mākou huakaʻi Lhasa a loaʻa i kahi hiamoe nui e hoʻomākaukau ai no ka huakaʻi ma mua.

ʻO kā mākou huakaʻi Lhasa Kailash e holomua iā mākou i ka mauna Kailash i manaʻo nui ʻia. Mai Lhasa, e holo kaʻa kaʻa kaʻa mākou ma ke ala komohana hema o ke alanui Friendship nani loa.

E hoʻokiʻekiʻe iā mākou i kahi kiʻekiʻe o 4797 m ma luna o ka Kampala Pass e waiho ana ma waena o Lhasa a me Gyantse. E nānā i ka ākea kupua o ka loko ʻo Yamdrok, i hana nani ʻia me he moʻo huelo ʻawaʻawa. Ua mahalo ʻia kēia loko o Tibet ma ke ʻano he kolu o nā loko haipule ma ka ʻaoʻao o Lhamo Latso, Mansarovar, a me Nam Tso.

E ʻoluʻolu e nānā i ke kuahiwi nani ʻo Nyenchen Khangsar 7191 m kiʻekiʻe. E hoʻokiʻekiʻe hou ke Alanui nani iā ​​mākou ma luna o kahi kiʻekiʻe 5010 m kiʻekiʻe o Karo La Pass.

E hahai ʻia kahi kaʻa i lalo i ka ʻehā o ke kūlanakauhale Tibetan nui o Gyantse. Ke kahe maluhia nei ka muliwai ʻo Nyang Chu a ʻo Pelkor Chode Monastery ka nani o kona ʻāina.

Hiki iā mākou ke ʻike i ka Kumbum Stupa he 32 m kiʻekiʻe, waiwai i nā mea hana Nepali, e hōʻike ana i ka nani o Bodhisattvas. Mai Gyantse, e neʻe hou aku mākou no kahi hola a hiki i Shigatse.

ʻO ka haʻalele ʻana iā Shigatse me ka ʻike ʻole ʻana i ka Monastery nui ʻo Tashilhunpo e hoʻolilo i kā mākou Shigatse i mea ʻole. I ke kakahiaka nui, e holo mākou i ka Puʻu ʻo Tara, ʻo Drolmari Peak, kahi i kū ai kēia Monastery Sumeru nani.

Mai ka makahiki 1447, ua hoʻokumu kēia hale hoʻohanohano i kāna hana ma ke ʻano he home o nā Panchen Lamas. He kiʻi like ko Shakyamuni Buddha kona hale nui, ka Dalai Lama 4, a me Gendun Drup.

ʻO ka manawa kēia e holomua ai kā mākou huakaʻi Lhasa Kailash i Saga. Ke lanakila nei i nā kiʻekiʻe kiʻekiʻe o nā ala ʻelua o Tso La a me Ngamring La (4650 m), e hoʻomau ke alanui ma Lhatse.

E piʻi hou ke ala ma luna o ka pā kiʻekiʻe 5220 m o ka Gyatchu La pass, a ma hope o kā mākou huakaʻi e hele ma ka ʻaoʻao o ka wai mālie o Pekutso Lake 4330 m) ma o Sangsang o ke awāwa Brahmaputra. Ma hope koke iho, e hōʻea mai ana ke kūlanakauhale ʻoliʻoli o Tibeta ʻo Saga.

E loaʻa iā mākou ka ʻike kapu mua o ka mauna ʻo Kailash i kēia lā ke pā mākou i ka lepo o ka loko makuahine ʻo Mansarovar. Mai Saga, e ʻike nā nalu ʻoluʻolu o ka muliwai Brahmaputra (Yarlung Tsangpo) i ko mākou ala ma ke kūlanakauhale mehameha o Old Dzongba.

Ma ke ala, hiki iā mākou ke ʻike i ka ʻike o ka monastery Dargyeling maikaʻi loa i ko mākou holomua ʻana i Paryang. I kēia manawa, e kuhikuhi ka muliwai ʻo Horchu i ko mākou ala a alakaʻi i ka pūʻali koa kahi e hoʻopaʻa inoa a nānā ʻia ai kā mākou mau palapala.

Eia hou, e piʻi ke alanui Tibet ma luna o ka 5211 m kiʻekiʻe o ka Mayumla Pass. ʻO ka 7694 m kiʻekiʻe o nā paia hau o ka Gurla Mandhata/Naimonanyi Peak e noho aliʻi ana i ka lewa nani.

I kēia manawa, e hele ana ke alanui Tibet i lalo no ʻelua hola a hiki i ka ʻāina noʻonoʻo nui o Lake Mansarovar. Piʻi maikaʻi ka Kailash i mua o ko mākou mau maka, e hoʻohauʻoli ʻaʻole i ko mākou maka wale nō akā i ko mākou ʻuhane pū kekahi.

I ke kakahiaka nui, e koho mākou i kahi e ʻauʻau ai me ka wai haipule o Lake Mansarovar. A laila, e komo mākou i ka puja, havan, a me yagya e like me ka moʻomeheu a me ka maʻamau.

E lawe i kahi manawa lokahi ma kona kahakai e noho pū me ʻoe iho. Inā makemake ʻoe, hiki iā ʻoe ke lawe i kahi kaʻaahi a i ʻole jeep (ua hoʻohui ʻia ke kumukūʻai e uku ʻia ma kahi) e pōʻai i ka loko a hana i kāu parikrama mua ma kāu huakaʻi Lhasa Kailash.

Aia ma kahi kokoke i ka Chiu Gompa mālie loa, hiki iā ʻoe ke lawe i kekahi manawa e makaʻala a ʻauʻau i kona pūnāwai wela (eia hou, he uku keu e uku ʻia ma kahi).

Ke kali nei ka 40 km o ke alanui Tibetan e lawe iā mākou i kahi hoʻomaka o kā mākou Lhasa me ka huakaʻi ʻo Mount Kailash. ʻO ia kahi huakaʻi a me ke kūlanakauhale kālepa no nā kaiāulu pilgrim nui mai Tibet a me India.

Ke ʻoluʻolu mākou i ko mākou lumi ma Darchen, e hōʻike ko mākou alakaʻi i kona ʻike e pili ana i ka papahana e hiki mai ana. E haʻi pū ʻo ia iā mākou e pili ana i ka hoʻolimalima ʻana i nā yaks, nā yakmen, nā kiaʻi, a me nā lio.

Inā makemake ʻoe e koho i kekahi o kēia mau lawelawe e hōʻoluʻolu i kāu parikrama, e hana ʻo ia i nā hoʻonohonoho mua āpau (e uku ʻia nā uku hoʻolimalima ma kahi).

Mai Darchen, kahi ala pōkole 5 km e alakaʻi iā mākou i ke kiʻekiʻe loa o ka Yamdwar, ʻo ia ka puka o Tarboche no nā Tibetans. Ua kau ʻia ka lehulehu o nā hae pule ʻulaʻula ma luna o kona kia, i hoʻololi ʻia i kēlā me kēia makahiki i ka lā maikaʻi o ka Saga Dawa Festival.

ʻO ka Yamdwar ma Hinduism ka puka kiaʻi ma lalo o nā maka makaʻala o ke Akua Yama (Deity of Death). E like me ka manaʻo, ʻo nā ʻuhane kīnā ʻole wale nō e ʻae ʻia e hele i kona paepae.

Ma hope o ka pōʻai ʻana i ka ʻīpuka, e hoʻomaka kā mākou huakaʻi Kailash kūikawā. Inā ua hoʻolimalima ʻoe i nā yaks a i ʻole nā ​​​​lio, na lākou e lawe i kāu ukana a ʻo ʻoe mai ʻaneʻi.

Ke hele mālie nei mākou ma kahi ākea ākea, e ʻike koke mākou i ka Tibetan Sky Cremation Site, kahi e ʻike ʻia ai ka lole keʻokeʻo nui e lele ana ma luna o kona ʻāina.

E hele ana ke ala i ke awāwa ʻo Lhachu a e makaʻala i kou mau maka no ka mea hiki iā ʻoe ke ʻike iki i ke Komohana Komohana o ka mauna Kailash.

Ke neʻe nei ma ke ala o nā hoki hihiu, hiki koke mākou i ka ʻāina haʻahaʻa o ka Monastery Dirapuk. Hiki iā mākou ke ʻike i kekahi mau hale hoʻokumu hou i kākoʻo ʻia e ke aupuni no ka hoʻomaʻamaʻa ʻana i nā malihini o ka huakaʻi Lhasa Kailash.

Eia nō naʻe, ʻaʻole ʻokoʻa nā hoʻonohonoho, akā e loaʻa iā mākou nā mea pono āpau e pono ai no ka hiamoe maikaʻi. I kēia manawa, hiki iā ʻoe ke ʻike i ka nani nani o ke alo ʻakaʻaka ʻākau o ka mauna Kailash.

I kēia lā, e hoʻoponopono mākou i ka huakaʻi paʻakikī loa o Lhasa Kailash huakaʻi 16 mau lā huakaʻi e piʻi ana i ka Dolma La Pass (5630m). ʻO kēia huakaʻi koʻikoʻi aia ma kahi o 8 km piʻi i luna, a ukali ʻia e 5 km ka piʻi ʻana o ka pali, a me kahi papa ʻoluʻolu he 22 km hele wāwae i Zutulpuk.

E ʻoluʻolu e ʻike i kekahi mau ʻāpana e pili ana i ka Pass e pono iā ʻoe e hoʻokuʻu i kāu mau yaks a i ʻole nā ​​lio, no ka mea hiki ke paʻakikī iā ʻoe a me ka lio ke hele.

I ka wā mua, e piʻi mālie ke ala ma waena o nā loko ʻoluʻolu o Jarok Donkhang. A laila, e hōʻea mākou i kahi ma mua o ka Dolma La pass i kapa ʻia ʻo Shiva Tsal Cemetery (5330 m), kahi e haʻalele ai nā malihini i kahi mea pilikino: kahi ʻāpana lole, kahi laka lauoho, kahi niho,
he hōʻailona o ko lākou make ʻana a me ka hānau hou ʻana i ke ola ʻuhane hou aʻe.

Ke holomua nei mākou me ka wikiwiki ʻole ma ke ala paheʻe a me ka pōhaku, e hōʻea mākou i ka Dolmla La Pass, kahi e lele ai nā hae pule he nui i ka makani, a ʻaʻole ʻike hou ʻia ka piko o ka mauna Kailash.

E like me ka manaʻoʻiʻo, ke noho nei ka makuahine hānai ʻo Tara wahine, no laila ua kapa ʻia ka piko ʻo Green Tara Pass. E iho mākou ma kēlā ʻaoʻao o ka Pass a hiki i Gauri Kunda (5608 m).

Ua manaʻo ʻia nā wai o kēia loko serene he laʻa loa no ka loaʻa ʻana o ka ikehu o ke akua akua Parvati (ka wahine a Lord Shiva). No ka poʻe Buddhist, ʻo ka loko ka home o Thukpe Dzingbu a ua kapa ʻia ʻo Tso Tuksche.

Ma muli o ka hana maʻamau a ka Hindu, hiki iā mākou ke hōʻiliʻili i kā lākou wai e hoʻomaʻemaʻe i kā mākou ʻoihana a me kahi keʻena. A laila e hele mākou ma ka pūnaewele i kapa ʻia ʻo Ax of Karma, kahi e ʻoki ai i kā mākou pilina me nā hopena o kā mākou mau hana hewa i hala.

I kēia manawa, e neʻe aku nā pāpū mālie o ke awāwa i lalo iā mākou i ka Monastery Zutulpuk.

ʻO ke ala hope o kā mākou huakaʻi i kēia lā e hoʻihoʻi iā mākou ma Barkha Plain a hiki i Darchen, no laila e hōʻailona ana i ka hopena o kā mākou lā parikrama hope loa. Ma ko mākou kaʻa, e hele mākou ma Lake Mansarovar, Mayum La Pass, a me Paryang i Saga.

Loaʻa iā mākou kahi pae hoʻololi pōkole i kēia lā e hoʻopau i ke ala pāpū a hiki i Nepal. ʻO ke ala e holo ana ma ka ʻaoʻao o ka muliwai Brahmaputra e lawe iā mākou i ka loko o Peiku Tso a laila piʻi ma luna o nā Passes o Lalung La (5030 m) a me Thong La (5153 m).

ʻO ke kaulahao Himalayan o Shishapangma (8027 m) a me Gaursishankar (7181 m) e hoʻohauʻoli i kā mākou huakaʻi i luna a i lalo. I kēia manawa, ke hele nei ke alanui i ka pali o Kerung, aia ma ka palena ʻo Nepal.

Ma hope o ka kakahiaka kakahiaka nui, e mākaukau mākou e hele i ka palena i Nepal ma o Rasuwagadhi. Na ke alanui Nepali a me ka hui e hoʻokipa iā mākou i kēia manawa, e kōkua iā mākou i nā kaʻina hana visa.

A laila, e hoʻomau ana ma ke ala mauna puʻupuʻu o Nepal, e hele kā mākou huakaʻi ma kahi 4WD ma Ghatte Khola, Timure, Syabrubesi, Dhunche, Rani Pauwa, a me Trishuli i Kathmandu.

ʻO ka ʻaina ahiahi ma ka hale ʻaina moʻomeheu Nepali me Nepali Thali set a me ka papahana hula moʻomeheu Nepali.