Ka Huakaʻi ʻo Lhasa Mount Kailash

Ua hauʻoli ʻo Kathmandu, ke kūlanakauhale o nā puʻu emerald, e hoʻokipa iā ʻoe. E hōʻailona kēia lā i ka hoʻomaka kūhelu o kāu huakaʻi kupaianaha ʻo Lhasa Mount Kailash.

Ke puka ʻoe i waho o TIA, e hālāwai ʻoe me ko mākou ʻelele, nāna e hoʻokipa maikaʻi iā ʻoe a lawe iā ʻoe i kou wahi e noho ai ma ke kūlanakauhale.

Ma hope o kou komo ʻana i loko o kou hōkele, e loaʻa iā ʻoe ka manawa e hoʻomaha ai a ʻike i kēia kūlanakauhale kupaianaha. I ke ahiahi, e hālāwai ʻoe me ko mākou alakaʻi huakaʻi a me nā hoa hui.

E haʻi aku kā mākou alakaʻi iā ʻoe i nā mea āpau e pili ana i kā mākou huakaʻi huakaʻi ʻo Lhasa Mount Kailash me nā kikoʻī. Manaʻo mākou e hiamoe pono ʻoe, no ka mea, e loaʻa iā mākou kahi mokulele kakahiaka nui i ke kakahiaka ʻapōpō.

ʻO kēia ka lā e hoʻomaka maoli ai kāu huakaʻi ma Lhasa Mount Kailash. Mai TIA, e holo pololei ʻoe i ke kahua mokulele ʻo Lhasa Gonggar. I ka lani mālamalama, hiki iā ʻoe ke nānā aku iā Mount Everest, Mount Makalu, a me Kanchenjunga.

Ke pae ʻoe i Lhasa, e noho ʻoe i kahi ʻāina ʻokoʻa loa. Ma hope o ka hoʻopau ʻana i kāu mau palapala hoʻolimalima malihini, e hālāwai ʻoe me kā mākou alakaʻi Tibet kūloko e paʻa ana i kā mākou Palapala Hoʻoili Huakaʻi Tibet.

Ma hope o kahi hoʻokipa ʻoluʻolu, e hoʻokele kahi kaʻa pilikino iā ʻoe ma ke Alanui Lhasa-Gonggar maʻemaʻe. E hahai kā mākou huakaʻi i ka Yarlung Tsangpo nani (Brahmaputra) a me nā muliwai ʻo Lhasa.

I ka hopena, e hōʻea mākou i ke kikowaena o Lhasa kahi e ʻike mua ai mākou i ka Hale Aliʻi kupaianaha ʻo Potala. Ma hope o ko mākou komo ʻana i loko o kā mākou hōkele, e hoʻomaha loa mākou a ʻaʻohe mea e hana ai no ka mea he mea nui loa ka hoʻomaʻamaʻa ʻana ma ke kiʻekiʻe o Lhasa.

I kēia lā, e nānā pono kākou i ka ʻuhane o ka Buddhism Tibet. Ma hope o ka ʻaina kakahiaka, e hoʻokele mākou i kā mākou alakaʻi ma kahi o 8 km ma ke komohana o Lhasa Waena.

Ma hope koke iho, e hiki ana mākou i ka wāwae o ka mauna ʻo Gambo Utse, kahi i loaʻa ai ka Hale Mōneka ʻo Drepung. ʻO ia ka hale mōneka nui loa o ka honua i ka wā ma mua, ua noho ia a hiki i ka 10,000 mau mōneka i kona mau lā hanohano.

I hoʻokumu ʻia i ka makahiki 1416, aia ka hale mōneka i kahi Hale Hālāwai nui, nā wahi noho o ka Dalai Lamas, a me nā kiʻi pena Buddhist he mau kenekulia, nā hale pule, a me nā kiʻi nui o Maitreya (ka Buddha e hiki mai ana).

Ke pau ka ʻimi ʻana, e ʻai kākou i kā kākou ʻaina awakea a hele i ka ʻaoʻao ʻākau o Lhasa, kahi i loaʻa ai ka Hale Pule ʻo Sera. Ua hoʻokumu ʻia i ka makahiki 1419, ke kū nei kēia hale pule ma ke ʻano he home palekana no ka ʻike Buddhist kahiko.

Maanei, hiki iā mākou ke ʻimi i kona mau koleke nani a me nā kihi pouli kahi i mālama pono ʻia ai nā palapala hemolele kahiko. Ma kahi o 3 PM, e hiki iā mākou ke ʻike maka i ka hoʻopaʻapaʻa ʻana o nā mōneka ikaika ma ka pā hale.

Ke pau, e hoʻihoʻi kā mākou alakaʻi iā mākou i ko mākou hōkele ma Lhasa.

ʻO kēia kekahi o nā lā koʻikoʻi nui o kā mākou huakaʻi ʻo Lhasa Kailash. Ma hope o ka ʻaina kakahiaka, e hoʻokele kā mākou alakaʻi iā mākou i waenakonu o ke awāwa kahi i loaʻa ai ʻo Marpo Ri (Red Hill).

Ma luna o kēia puʻu, kū hanohano ʻo Potala Palace, a no ka hiki ʻana i laila, pono mākou e piʻi mālie a paʻa i nā ʻanuʻu piʻi a ʻaʻole paʻa. Ke hiki mākou i luna, e ʻimi mākou i ka White Palace, kahi i lilo ai i wahi noho, nā keʻena, a me ka ʻaha hoʻokolokolo politika o ka Dalai Lamas.

A laila, e hele mākou i Red Palace, kahi e hiki ai iā mākou ke nānā aku i nā lumi pule, nā lumi aʻo, a me nā stupa kanu gula kupaianaha o nā Dalai Lamas i hala.

I kēia manawa, e iho ana mākou mai ka hale aliʻi mai a ʻai i kā mākou ʻaina awakea. A laila, e hele mākou i ka ʻāpana kahiko o Lhasa, kahi i loaʻa ai ka Luakini ʻo Jokhang. Ua kūkulu ʻia i ke kenekulia 7 e ke Aliʻi Songtsen Gampo, aia i loko ke kiʻi ʻo Jowo Shakyamuni, he kiʻi maoli o Buddha i ka makahiki ʻumikūmālua.

Aia ma ka luakini ke Alanui ʻo Barkhor, kahi e lilo ai i wahi kaapuni Kora koʻikoʻi no nā huakaʻi hele. I ke ahiahi, lilo ke alanui i wahi kūʻai olaola kahi e hiki ai iā mākou ke nānā i nā kāpeti hana lima, nā mea ʻala Tibet, nā mea hoʻonaninani turquoise, nā momi pule, nā kīʻaha mele keleawe, a me nā kiʻi pena thangka nani.

E hoʻomaka mua ana mākou i kēia lā no ka mea he lā lōʻihi ko mākou e holo ai i mua. Ma hope o ke ala komohana hema, e kalaiwa mākou ma luna o ke Kamba La Pass (4797 m).

Ma lalo, hiki iā mākou ke ʻike i ka loko ʻo Yamdrok, a ma luna hiki iā mākou ke nānā aku i ka mauna ʻo Noijin Kangsang he 7191 m ke kiʻekiʻe. Ke hoʻomau nei ma ke alaloa, e piʻi mākou i luna a hiki i ke ala ʻo Karo La (5010 m).

E hoʻokaʻawale i kekahi manawa e mahalo ai i ka Karo La Glacier ma mua. I kēia manawa, e iho kākou mai ke ala kiʻekiʻe a hōʻea i Gyantse, kahi e hiki ai iā kākou ke kipa aku i ka Hale Mōneka ʻo Palcho/Pelkor Chode.

I loko o kona pā hale, hiki iā mākou ke ʻike i ka Kumbum Stupa ʻeiwa papahele, he 32 m ke kiʻekiʻe. I kēia manawa, e kalaiwa mākou i ke alaloa pālahalaha hope loa he 90 km e hiki ai i Shigatse, ke kūlanakauhale lua o Tibet.

He lā koʻikoʻi loa kēia ma kā mākou huakaʻi ʻo Lhasa Mount Kailash me ka huakaʻi ʻo Everest Base Camp. Eia naʻe, i ke kakahiaka nui, e kipa aku mākou i ka Hale Mōneka hanohano ʻo Tashilhunpo.

Ua hoʻokumu ʻia i ka makahiki 1447, ʻo ia ka home o ka Panchen Lama, kahi e ʻike ai mākou i kahi kiʻi he 26 mika ke kiʻekiʻe o Maitreya, ka Buddha e hiki mai ana.

A laila, e lele mākou i loko o kā mākou kaʻa a holo ma ke Alanui Friendship ma kahi o 340km. E hele mākou ma Lhatse a keʻa i ke ala ʻo Tsola (4600 m).

A laila e piʻi mākou i ke alanui mauna kupaianaha a laumania a hiki i ke ala nui mua o Gyatso La (5248 m). ʻO kēia ka hōʻailona o ko mākou komo kūhelu ʻana i ka Chomolungma (Everest) National Nature Reserve.

E hōʻea kākou i kēia manawa i kahi e nānā ai ʻo Shegar (New Tingri), kahi e haʻalele ai kākou i ke alaloa nui a hele i EBC. ʻO ke alanui e hiki mai ana e alakaʻi iā kākou i Gawu La Pass (5350 m), kahi e ʻike ai kākou i ʻelima mau piko kiʻekiʻe i uhi ʻia i ka hau o Everest, Makalu, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, a me Shishapangma.

I ka iho ʻana mai ke alahele, e kalaiwa kākou ma waena o ka ʻāina paʻapū a hōʻea i ka Hale Mōneka ʻo Rongbuk (5009 m), ka hale mōneka hoʻomana kiʻekiʻe loa ma ka Honua.

Ma hope o ka mahalo ʻana i ke alo keʻokeʻo ʻākau o Everest, e noho mākou i loko o ko mākou wahi e noho ai (hale hoʻokipa halelewa a i ʻole ka hale hoʻokipa maʻamau ʻo Rongbuk).

E ʻoluʻolu e hoʻomaopopo ua hoʻoneʻe nā luna Kina i ka hale mākaʻikaʻi nui ʻo EBC i kahi a puni ka Hale Mōneka ʻo Rongbuk. Ua hoʻokumu ʻia kahi palena maopopo a me kahi wahi e nānā ai ma waho o ka wahi.

No laila, ʻo ka poʻe piʻi mauna wale nō e paʻa ana i nā palapala ʻae piʻi kūhelu no ka piko ʻo Everest ke hiki i kahi hoʻomoana maoli. Eia kekahi, hoʻohana ʻia nā kaʻa eco e holo ai a hiki i ka hale mōneka, a mai laila mai, pono mākou e komo i loko o ke kaʻa uila e hiki ai i ka EBC i hāʻawi ʻia. E noho pō ma Rongbuk.

E hoʻomaka ana ko mākou kakahiaka me ka ʻike hope loa ʻana i ka piko ʻālohilohi o Everest. A laila, ma hope o ka ʻaina kakahiaka, e hele mākou i ke komohana a kalaiwa i 300 km, ma ke alanui e hele ana i Western Tibet.

E piʻi mākou ma waena o nā ala mauna kiʻekiʻe a hiki i ke kahakai o ka loko ʻo Peiku Tso (4590 m). E ʻaihue ke kua o Shishapangma i ko mākou mau puʻuwai ʻoiai ʻike ʻia ʻo Kyang (nā hoki hihiu Tibet), nā antelope Tibet, a me nā marmots Himalayan nani e ʻai mālie ana a puni ka ʻāina ʻōmaʻomaʻo o ka loko.

E haʻalele mākou i ka loko ma hope a e hele ma ke alanui nui e alakaʻi iā mākou i ka ʻākau a hiki i Saga. E hele mākou ma ke alahaka hou e uhi ana i ka muliwai ʻo Yarlung Tsangpo a hōʻea i Saga no ka pō.

ʻO kēia lā ka lā hoʻokele kaʻa lōʻihi loa ma kahi o 500km, o kā mākou huakaʻi huakaʻi ʻo Lhasa Mount Kailash. Ma hope o ko mākou haʻalele ʻana iā Saga, e lawe ana ke Alanui Lahui G219 ma ka ʻaoʻao o ka muliwai ʻo Brahmaputra (Yarlung Tsangpo) iā mākou i ke kauhale hele wāwae ʻo Old Dzongba.

Ma ko mākou hele ʻana, e ʻike pū mākou i ka hale mōneka ʻo Dargyeling e moe pono ana ma mua o ko mākou hiki ʻana i kahi noho kauwela o Paryang. Ke kahe iki aku nei ka muliwai ʻo Horchu.

E nānā ana kahi wahi nānā koa i kā mākou mau palapala ʻae a me ke kākau inoa ʻana, a ma hope o kēlā e hele mākou ma ke ala kiʻekiʻe o Mayum La (5211 m). ʻO Gurla Mandhata/Naimonanyi Peak (7694 m) ke kiʻekiʻe ma luna o ka ʻaoʻao o ke ala.

A laila, e iho mākou mai ke ala a hiki i ka loko ʻo Mansarovar i loko o ʻelua hola. Maanei, e ʻike mākou i ke alo o ka mauna ʻo Kailash i ke ʻano daimana no ka manawa mua.

E hoʻomau mākou no kekahi 35 a 45 mau minuke ma ke kula ʻo Barkha a hiki i Darchen, kahi e kū pono ana ma ka wāwae o ka mauna ʻo Kailash. Mai ʻaneʻi, e hoʻomaka mākou i ka Parikrama 3 lā o Kailash.

Inā ʻoe e hoʻolālā e hoʻolimalima i ke kanaka halihali kūloko a i ʻole ka yak e kōkua i ka hāpai ʻana iā ʻoe a me kāu ʻeke ʻeke, a laila e hoʻomaopopo koke i kā mākou alakaʻi i hiki iā ia ke hoʻonohonoho iā ia ma ke keʻena hoʻopaʻa inoa ma mua.

I kēia lā, e hoʻomaka kūhelu ana mākou i kā mākou huakaʻi hele wāwae a puni ʻo Kailash. Mai Darchen mai, e kalaiwa mākou i ke komohana ma ka wāwae o ke kualono a hiki i ka pou hae ʻo Tarboche (4724 m).

Maanei, hiki iā mākou ke ʻike i kahi pou hae nui i uhi ʻia i nā tausani o nā hae pule. Ua kapa ʻia kēia wahi ʻo Yama Dwara (Puka i kiaʻi ʻia e ka Haku o ka Make e like me ka Hinduism).

ʻO kēia nō hoʻi kahi e hoʻolauleʻa ʻia ai ka ʻahaʻaina makahiki kaulana ʻo Saga Dawa. Maanei, e hālāwai me ʻoe ke kiaʻi kūloko a me ka yak āu i hoʻolimalima ai a hahai iā ʻoe ma ke ala hele wāwae a puni ʻo Kailash.

E hele mākou a puni ka pou hae a hahai i ke ala ākea, ʻiliʻili, a paʻakikī a hala ma kahi o ka Tibetan Sky Cremation Site kuʻuna. A laila, e hahai mākou i ka muliwai ʻo Lha Chu a hala ma nā wahi kū kī liʻiliʻi he nui.

I ke aniau mālamalama, hiki iā mākou ke nānā aku i ka ʻaoʻao komohana laumania o Kailash. Ke hele wāwae hou aku nei, e hele mākou ma ke alahaka a hōʻea i Dirapuk ma hope o 12 km ka hele wāwae ʻana, kahi e hōʻike ai ʻo Kailash i kona ʻaoʻao ʻākau.

E hoʻomākaukau e manaʻo i ka hale hoʻokipa kaila dormitory rustic ma ʻaneʻi no ka pō me ka ʻole o ka wai e holo ana a i ʻole ka hoʻomehana.

ʻO kēia lā ka huakaʻi paʻakikī loa a koi kino hoʻi o kā mākou huakaʻi holoʻokoʻa ma Lhasa Kailash. E lilo nō hoʻi kēia lā i mea ʻuhane loa ke hele mākou ma ke ala kaulana ʻo Dolma La Pass, ka piko kiʻekiʻe loa o kā mākou huakaʻi ma Lhasa Mount Kailash me Everest Base Camp.

Mai Dirapuk mai, e piʻi mau ana mākou i luna ma ke awāwa ʻo Lha Chu a hala iā Jarok Donkhang. E hala pū mākou i ka Hale Kupapaʻu ʻo Shiva Tsal (5330 m), kahi wahi kapu i uhi ʻia me nā lole kahiko, nā kāmaʻa, a me nā lauoho i waiho ʻia e nā malihini.

Hōʻike kēia hana i kou ʻae ʻana e haʻalele i kou ola kahiko, nā hewa, a me ka ego ma hope i hiki ai iā ʻoe ke hānau hou ʻia ke hiki ʻoe i ka piko o ke ala. Ma hope o kekahi mau hola o ka piʻi ʻana i luna, e hōʻea hope loa mākou i ke ala i uhi ʻia i ke kai o nā tausani o nā hae pule kala.

ʻO kēia ka Green Tara a i ʻole Dolma La Pass, kahi hoʻi o ke Akua Wahine ʻo Tara. E haʻalele mākou i ke ala a iho i lalo ma ke ala pōhaku piʻi. Ma ka ʻākau, e ʻike mākou iā Gauri Kund (Thukje Chenpo Tso/5608 m), kahi, e like me ka moʻomeheu Hindu, i ʻauʻau ai ke Akua Wahine ʻo Parvati.

A laila e hele mākou ma waena o ke Koʻi o Karma, ka mea e ʻoki loa i ko mākou pilina me ko mākou Karma i hala. I kēia manawa, e pālahalaha ke ala i kahi ala lepo mālie e alakaʻi iā mākou i Zutulpuk ma hope o 22 km ka hele wāwae.

Maanei hoʻi, e ʻano ʻano kuaʻāina ka hoʻonohonoho ʻana o ka hale noho, e like me ma Dirapuk.

ʻO kēia ka lā hope loa o ka huakaʻi Kailash, kahi a mākou e hoʻopau ai ma hope o ko mākou haʻalele ʻana mai Zutulpuk. E hahai mālie ana ko mākou ala i ka ʻaoʻao hikina ma ka ʻaoʻao o ka muliwai. A laila, e hele mākou ma ke awāwa haiki a iho i lalo i ke kula ʻo Barkha.

Maanei, e kiʻi mai kā mākou kaʻa iā mākou a hoʻokele iā mākou i Darchen, a pēlā e hōʻailona ai i ka hopena o kā mākou huakaʻi huakaʻi a puni ʻo Kailash. E hele mākou i ka hema e hiki i ka loko ʻo Mansarovar, kahi e hōʻike ana i ka piko o ka mauna ʻo Gurla Mandhata.

Ma mua o ko mākou komo ʻana i ko mākou wahi e noho ai, e komo mākou i ka huakaʻi kuʻuna o ka loko, hiki iā mākou ke hana ma luna o kahi kaʻa aupuni a i ʻole ma ka wāwae.

A laila e hoʻolilo mākou i ko mākou ahiahi e hele wāwae ana ma kona kahakai mālie e nānā ana i ka napoʻo ʻana o ka lā ma luna o Kailash.

I ke kakahiaka nui, e komo mākou i ka hana hoʻomana ma ke kahakai o ka loko ʻo Mansarovar. E hana mākou i nā pule, e hōʻiliʻili i ka wai hemolele, a e hana i kahi hana hoʻomaʻemaʻe hōʻailona.

A laila e lele mākou i loko o kā mākou kaʻa a holo i ka hikina ma ke Alanui Lahui ākea a laumania ʻo G219 a hiki i Saga ma kahi o 490 km. E hoʻi hou mākou i luna i ke ala kiʻekiʻe ʻo Mayum La Pass a iho i ke alanui pālahalaha.

A laila e huakaʻi mākou ma waena o nā awāwa ākea o Tibet a me nā wahi ululāʻau maloʻo o Alpine. Eia hou, e alakaʻi kā mākou huakaʻi iā mākou ma luna o ke alahaka ʻo Yarlung Tsangpo ma mua o ko mākou hōʻea ʻana i Saga no ka pō.

E haʻalele mākou iā Saga ma hope o ka ʻaina kakahiaka a e hele i ka hema ma kahi o 290 km ka holo kaʻa. Ke hele nei ma waena o ka ʻāina alpine, e ʻike koke mākou i ka hoʻololi ʻana o ke ʻano o ka ʻāina. E hele mākou ma ke kahakai o ka loko ʻo Peiku Tso a piʻi i luna o nā ala mauna kiʻekiʻe o Lalung La (5030 m) a me Thong La (5153 m).

Ma ke awakea, e hōʻea mākou i ke kūlanakauhale ʻo Gyirong, ka mea e lawelawe nei ma ke ʻano he palena ʻo Tibet ma mua o ko mākou hiki ʻana i Nepal.

Ke hoʻopau nei kā mākou huakaʻi ʻo Lhasa Kailash, a e hoʻihoʻi kēia lā iā mākou i Kathmandu, kahi i hoʻomaka ai ka huakaʻi. Ma hope o kahi holo pōkole mai Gyirong mai, e hōʻea mākou i ka palena honua o Kina a me Nepal.

Ma hope o ke aloha ʻana me ko mākou hoa Tibet, e puka mākou i waho o ka palena ʻo Tibet a hele ma ke alahaka Sino-Nepal Friendship Bridge e uhi ana i ke awāwa.

A laila e hōʻea mākou i Rasuwagadhi, kahi e komo ai mākou i ke keʻena Immigration Nepal. A laila e hālāwai mākou me kā mākou alakaʻi Nepali a me ka mea hoʻokele e kali ana iā mākou me kahi kaʻa pilikino he 175 km i Kathmandu.

E hoʻomau ʻia ke alanui ʻōpala a puʻupuʻu no kekahi mau hola i loko o ka Langtang National Park. E huakaʻi mākou ma waena o nā kauhale ʻo Ghatte Khola, Timure, Syabrubesi, Dhunche a me Rani Pauwa.

I kēia manawa, e hoʻomaka ana ke kahawai ʻo Trishuli e alakaʻi iā mākou i Galchhi, kahi e alakaʻi ai ke Alanui Nui ʻo Prithvi iā mākou i Kathmandu.