Introduction
Phiri la Everest, lomwe lili pamtunda wa mamita 8,849 (29,032 mapazi), ndilopamwamba kwambiri padziko lapansi komanso chizindikiro cha chikhumbo ndi kupirira kwaumunthu. Chikoka chokweza nsonga yaikuluyi chimakopa anthu okwera mapiri ochokera padziko lonse lapansi, motsogozedwa ndi chikhumbo chofuna kuthana ndi vuto lalikulu la kukwera mapiri. Posachedwapa, wokwera phiri la ku Britain Kenton Cool ndi wotsogolera waku Nepali Kami Rita Sherpa adapanga mitu yankhani pophwanya mbiri yawo chifukwa chokwera kwambiri. Phiri la Everest. Cool adakwaniritsa msonkhano wake wa 18, pomwe Sherpa adafika pa 29th, akutsogolera makasitomala kudzera panjira yotchuka yaku Southeast Ridge.
Kukwera mapiri sikuli chabe maseŵera ku Nepal; ndi ntchito yayikulu yokopa alendo yomwe imayendetsa chuma cham'deralo, kupereka ndalama komanso mwayi wogwira ntchito. Nepal, yomwe ili ndi malo ochititsa chidwi komanso nsonga zazitali, kuphatikizapo mapiri asanu ndi atatu mwa 14 aatali kwambiri padziko lapansi, ndi mecca ya okwera mapiri ndi okonda ulendo. Nthawi iliyonse yokwera mapiri, dzikolo limapereka chilolezo kwa anthu okwera mapiri, zomwe zimathandiza kuti ndalama zambiri zitheke. Chaka chino, zilolezo 414, chilichonse chikuwononga $11,000, chinaperekedwa kwa Everest yokha.
Mbiri ya Kenton Cool ndi Kami Rita Sherpa
Kenton Cool
Kenton Cool, yemwe anabadwa pa July 30, 1973, ku Slough, ku England, ndi mmodzi mwa akatswiri okwera mapiri a ku Britain. Ulendo wake wokwera kukwera unayambira kumapiri a Wales ndi Scotland, kumene anayamba kukonda kwambiri masewerawa. Ntchito ya Cool imakongoletsedwa ndi zinthu zambiri zofunika, zomwe zimamupangitsa kukhala wotchuka m'gulu la okwera mapiri.
Ndi maulendo 18 opambana a Everest, Cool ali ndi mbiri yaku Britain pamisonkhano yambiri. Ukatswiri wake umapitilira kungofika pamwamba; watsogolera maulendo angapo, kuonetsetsa chitetezo ndi kupambana kwa makasitomala ake. Chimodzi mwazinthu zodziwika bwino za Cool ndikumaliza "Everest Triple Korona" zomwe zikuphatikizapo kukwera Everest, Lhotse, ndi Nuptse mu kukankha kamodzi kosalekeza popanda kubwerera kumsasa woyambira. Zomwe wachita zimangowonetsa luso lake komanso kulimba mtima komanso kudzipereka kwake pamasewera.
Kami Rita Sherpa
Kami Rita Sherpa, wobadwa pa Januware 17, 1970, m'mudzi wa Thame m'chigawo cha Everest ku Nepal, ndi wodziwika bwino wokwera mapiri. Bambo ake anali m'gulu la apainiya a Sherpa omwe adathandizira kukhazikitsa njira za Everest, ndipo Kami Rita adatsatira mapazi ake kuyambira ali wamng'ono.
Ndi maulendo 29 opambana a Everest, Kami Rita ali ndi mbiri yapadziko lonse yokwera kwambiri phirili. Zomwe adakumana nazo komanso chidziwitso chakuya cha Everest zimamupangitsa kukhala m'modzi mwa otsogolera olemekezeka kwambiri pamakampani. Kupitilira zomwe adachita, ntchito ya Kami Rita ikuwonetsa gawo lofunikira lomwe Sherpas amachita pamakampani okwera. Sherpas ndi ofunikira kuti maulendo apambane, apereke chithandizo chamtengo wapatali, kunyamula katundu wolemetsa, kukhazikitsa misasa, ndi kuonetsetsa chitetezo cha okwera.
Njira ya Southeast Ridge
Njira ya Southeast Ridge yopita ku msonkhano wa Everest ndiyo njira yotchuka kwambiri komanso yokhazikitsidwa bwino, yoyamba kukwera bwino ndi Sir Edmund Hillary ndi Tenzing Norgay mu 1953. Njirayi imayamikiridwa chifukwa cha njira yake yowongoka komanso kukhalapo kwa misasa yokhazikitsidwa panjira, yomwe imapereka chithandizo chofunikira kwa okwera.
Ulendo wopita ku Everest Base Camp (EBC)
Ulendo wopita ku nsonga ya Everest umayamba ndi ulendo wopita ku Everest Base Camp (EBC), komwe amapitako kwa apaulendo ambiri. Ulendowu umayambira ku Lukla, tawuni yaing'ono yomwe mungafikirepo ndi ndege yaifupi kuchokera ku Kathmandu. Njirayi imadutsa m'midzi yokongola, m'nkhalango zowirira, ndi milatho yodutsa pamitsinje yobangula, zomwe zimapatsa chidwi mapiri a Himalaya.
Ulendo wopita ku EBC umatenga pafupifupi masiku 8 mpaka 10, kutengera mayendedwe ndi zosowa zawo. Maimidwe ofunikira panjirayi akuphatikiza Phakding, Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, Dingboche, ndi Lobuche. Mudzi uliwonse umapatsa anthu oyenda paulendo mwayi woti apume, kuzolowerana bwino ndi chikhalidwe komanso kuchereza alendo kwawo.
Namche Bazaar, yomwe nthawi zambiri imatengedwa ngati khomo lolowera kumapiri a Himalaya, ndiyoyimitsa kwambiri kuti muwonjezeke. Tawuni yodzaza ndi anthuyi imapereka zinthu zosiyanasiyana, kuphatikiza mashopu, malo odyera, ndi ntchito zapaintaneti, zomwe zimapangitsa kukhala malo opumirako otchuka. Kukweraku kumapitilira ku Tengboche, komwe kumadziwika kuti ndi nyumba ya amonke yodziwika bwino, komanso Dingboche, komwe oyenda maulendo amatha masiku owonjezera kuti akafike ku Lobuche.
Pomaliza, apaulendo amafika ku Gorak Shep, malo omaliza asanafike EBC. Kuchokera ku Gorak Shep, njirayo imatsogolera ku Everest Base Camp, yomwe ili pamtunda wa 5,364 mamita (17,598 mapazi). EBC imagwira ntchito ngati malo opangira okwera omwe akuyesera kukwera pamwamba pa Everest, ndikupereka malo osangalatsa odzaza mahema okongola, okwera mapiri ochokera padziko lonse lapansi, komanso chiyembekezo chomveka bwino.
Kukwera ku Southeast Ridge
Kukwera kuchokera ku EBC kupita ku nsonga ya Everest kugawidwa m'magawo angapo, iliyonse ili ndi zovuta zake ndi zoopsa zake. Njirayi imadziwika ndi misasa yambiri, iliyonse ikupereka mpumulo wovuta komanso malo abwino kwa okwera.
- Khumbu Icefall: Chopinga chachikulu choyamba ndi Khumbu Icefall, madzi owundana owopsa komanso osasunthika omwe amakhala ndi madzi oundana aatali kwambiri komanso ming'oma yakuya. Okwera amayenda pa Icefall pogwiritsa ntchito makwerero ndi zingwe, kusuntha mwachangu kuti achepetse chiopsezo cha kugwa kwa ayezi. Icefall ndi imodzi mwamagawo owopsa kwambiri okwera ndipo imafunikira kuyenda mosamalitsa.
- Camp I (mamita 6,065 / 19,900 mapazi): Atawoloka Icefall, okwera amafika ku Camp I, yomwe ili ku Western Cwm, chigwa cha glacial. Malo athyathyathya a Cwm amapereka kupuma pang'ono, koma mtunda wautali komanso dzuŵa lamphamvu lomwe limayang'anizana ndi chipale chofewa lingapangitse ulendo kukhala wovuta.
- Camp II (mamita 6,400 / 21,000 mapazi): Kuchokera ku Camp I, okwera amakwera kupita ku Camp II, yomwe ili m'munsi mwa Lhotse Face. Gawoli limaphatikizapo kuwoloka Western Cwm ndikuyendayenda m'mipata. Camp II imagwira ntchito ngati msasa wapamwamba kwambiri, womwe umapereka malo ogona komanso zofunikira.
- Lhotse Face ndi Camp III (mamita 7,162 / 23,500 mapazi): Kukweraku kumapitirira pamwamba pa Lhotse Face, khoma la ayezi lomwe limafuna zingwe zokhazikika kuti zitetezeke. Camp III ili pamtunda wopapatiza pa Nkhope ya Lhotse, kumapereka malo opumira owopsa kwa okwera.
- South Col ndi Camp IV (mamita 7,920 / 26,000 mapazi): Camp IV, yomwe ili ku South Col, ndiye malo omaliza msonkhanowu usanachitike. Okwera amapumula apa mwachidule ndikukonzekera gawo lovuta kwambiri la kukwera. South Col imakumana ndi mphepo yamkuntho komanso kuzizira kwambiri, zomwe zimapangitsa kukhala malo ovuta.
- The Summit Push: Kukankhira pamisonkhano kumayambira m'mamawa, nthawi zambiri chapakati pausiku, kuti agwiritse ntchito mazenera achidule a nyengo ndikufika pachimake m'bandakucha. Zizindikiro zazikulu m'njirayi ndi izi:
- Khonde: Malo ang'onoang'ono pamtunda wa mamita 8,400 (27,600 mapazi) kumene okwera amatha kupuma ndikusintha matanki awo a oxygen.
- South Summit: Pafupifupi mamita 8,749 (28,700 mapazi), South Summit ndi msonkhano wabodza womwe umapereka maonekedwe oyambirira a kukwera komaliza.
- Hillary Step: Mwala womwe uli pafupi kuyimirira m'munsi mwa nsongayo, wotchedwa Sir Edmund Hillary. Gawoli limafunikira kukwera kwaukadaulo komanso kuyendetsa bwino.
- Msonkhano: Gawo lomalizali likukhudza malo otsetsereka opita kuphiri, kumene anthu okwera mapiri amasangalala kwambiri akamaima pamwamba pa dziko lapansi.
Zovuta za Kukwera Everest
Kukwera phiri la Everest kuli ndi zovuta zambiri, zakuthupi komanso zamaganizo. Kukwera koopsa, nyengo yoyipa, komanso malo ovuta kumapangitsa kuti ikhale imodzi mwazovuta komanso zowopsa zokwera padziko lapansi.
Matenda Okwera
Chimodzi mwazovuta zazikulu ndi matenda okwera, omwe amatha kukhudza okwera pamwamba pa 2,500 metres (8,200 mapazi). Mpweya wochepa kwambiri pamtunda umachepetsa kuchuluka kwa okosijeni, zomwe zimayambitsa zizindikiro monga mutu, nseru, chizungulire, ndi kupuma movutikira. Mitundu yoopsa ya matenda okwera kwambiri, monga high-altitude cerebral edema (HACE) ndi high-altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE), ikhoza kuopseza moyo ndipo imafuna kutsika mwamsanga kumalo otsika.
Zovuta Zanyengo
Nyengo pa Everest ndi yosadziwika bwino ndipo imatha kusintha mwachangu. Okwera ayenera kulimbana ndi kuzizira kwambiri, mphepo yamkuntho, komanso kuopsa kwa mafunde. Kutentha kumatha kutsika mpaka -40°C (-40°F) kapena kutsika, ndipo liwiro la mphepo limatha kupitirira makilomita 100 pa ola (62 miles pa ola). Mikhalidwe yovutayi imafuna kukonzekera mosamala komanso kugwiritsa ntchito zida zapadera kuti muteteze ku chizizira ndi hypothermia.
Zofuna Zathupi
Zofuna zakuthupi za kukwera Everest ndi zazikulu. Okwera ayenera kukhala olimba kwambiri kuti athe kupirira kwa maola ambiri a ntchito yotopetsa, nthawi zambiri atanyamula katundu wolemetsa komanso poyenda m'malo achinyengo. Kukwera kumafuna mlingo wapamwamba wa kulimba, kupirira, ndi luso lokwera luso.
Mavuto Amaganizo
Zovuta zamaganizidwe zokwera Everest ndizofunikanso. Kudzipatula, mikhalidwe yoipitsitsa, ndi kutopa kwakuthupi kungawononge thanzi lamalingaliro. Okwera ayenera kukhala okhazikika, okhazikika, komanso okhoza kupanga zisankho zovuta pamavuto. Mphamvu zamaganizidwe zodutsa m'magawo omaliza a kukwera, komwe nthawi zambiri kumatchedwa "dera lakufa" pamwamba pa 8,000 metres (26,247 mapazi), ndikofunikira kuti zinthu ziyende bwino.
Udindo wa Sherpas mu Mountaineering
Sherpas amagwira ntchito yofunika kwambiri pakuyenda bwino kwa maulendo a Everest. Anthu a m’madera a m’mapiri a Himalaya amenewa ndi otchuka chifukwa cha luso lawo lokwera mapiri, kupirira, ndiponso kuchita bwino pamalo okwera. Sherpas ndi mamembala ofunikira a magulu okwera, kupereka chithandizo, kunyamula katundu wolemetsa, kukhazikitsa makampu, kukonza zingwe, ndi kutsogolera okwera kudutsa m'zigawo zovuta kwambiri za njira.
Zopereka za Sherpas nthawi zambiri zimayamikiridwa, komabe ukatswiri wawo ndi kugwira ntchito molimbika ndizofunikira kuti apambane ndi chitetezo chaulendo. Sherpas ngati Kami Rita, yemwe ali ndi zaka zambiri komanso kukwera maulendo angapo, amapereka chitsanzo chamtengo wapatali chomwe amachita pokwera mapiri.
Economic Impact of Mountaineering ku Nepal
Kukwera mapiri kumathandizira kwambiri chuma cha Nepal, kumapereka ndalama zambiri komanso mwayi wogwira ntchito. Dzikoli lili ndi nsonga zisanu ndi zitatu mwa mapiri 14 okwera kwambiri padziko lonse lapansi, zomwe zimapangitsa kukhala malo abwino kwambiri okwera mapiri komanso alendo okaona malo.
Ndalama za Chilolezo ndi Ndalama
Boma la Nepal limapereka zilolezo zokwerera Everest, chilolezo chilichonse chimawononga $11,000. Munthawi yokwera ya 2024, zilolezo 414 zidaperekedwa, zomwe zidapangitsa ndalama zoposa $4.5 miliyoni. Ndalamazi ndi zofunika kwambiri pa chuma cha dziko lino komanso zimathandiza kuthandizira ntchito zosiyanasiyana za boma ndi ntchito za zomangamanga.
Mwayi Employment
Kukwera mapiri kumapereka mwayi wa ntchito kwa anthu masauzande ambiri, kuphatikiza otsogolera, onyamula katundu, ophika, ndi othandizira. Kuchuluka kwa anthu okwera mapiri kumathandizira mabizinesi am'deralo, kuchokera ku mabungwe apaulendo ndi malo ogona mpaka mashopu ndi malo odyera. Zopindulitsa zachuma zimapitilira kudera lapafupi la Everest Base Camp, zomwe zimathandizira pachuma chambiri cha Nepalese.
Zovuta ndi Kukhazikika
Kutchuka kwa Everest kumabweretsanso zovuta, makamaka zokhudzana ndi kuchulukana komanso kukhudzidwa kwa chilengedwe. Kuchuluka kwa okwera kungayambitse chipwirikiti paphiri, makamaka pawindo lalifupi lokwera mu May. Izi zimawonjezera ngozi za ngozi ndikuyika zovuta zina pa malo osalimba a phirili.
Khama likuchitika pofuna kuyang'anira kuchuluka kwa anthu okwera mapiri ndikuwonetsetsa kuti zinthu zikuyenda bwino. Izi zikuphatikizapo malamulo okhwima okhudza zilolezo, ndondomeko zoyendetsera zinyalala, ndi njira zolimbikitsira ntchito zokopa alendo. Cholinga chake ndikusunga kukongola kwachilengedwe kwa Everest ndikuwonetsetsa chitetezo cha okwera komanso moyo wa anthu amderalo.
Ulendo wa Everest Base Camp (EBC) Trek
Ulendo wopita ku Everest Base Camp ndi ulendo wodziwika bwino womwe umapereka malingaliro odabwitsa, zokumana nazo zachikhalidwe, komanso kulawa koyenda mtunda wautali popanda ukadaulo wokwera pachimake. Ulendo wa EBC umapezeka kwa anthu oyenda maulendo osiyanasiyana aluso ndipo umapereka ulendo wosaiwalika pakati pa mapiri a Himalaya.
Njira Yoyenda
Ulendowu umayambira m'tauni yaing'ono ya Lukla, yomwe ili ndi khwalala laling'ono lodziwika bwino komanso lotsetsereka, lomwe mungafikike ndi ndege ya mphindi 30 kuchokera ku Kathmandu. Kuchokera ku Lukla, njirayo imadutsa m’midzi yokongola kwambiri, m’nkhalango zowirira, ndi kudutsa milatho yoyenda yodutsa m’mitsinje yobangula.
Maimidwe ofunikira paulendowu ndi awa:
- Phakding: Malo oyamba oima pambuyo pa Lukla, pomwe apaulendo amagona usiku wonse kuti ayambe kuwongolera.
- Namche Bazaar: Tauni yodzaza ndi anthu komanso malo ochitirako malonda m’chigawo cha Khumbu. Ma Trekkers amakhala masiku awiri pano kuti azolowere, kuyang'ana misika yam'deralo ndikusangalala ndi mawonekedwe a Everest ndi nsonga zozungulira.
- Tengboche: Imadziwika ndi nyumba ya amonke yodziwika bwino, Tengboche imapereka malingaliro odabwitsa a Ama Dablam ndi zimphona zina za Himalaya.
- Dingboche: Mudzi womwe umagwira ntchito ngati malo ena okhazikika, omwe ali ndi mwayi wopita kumalo okwera.
- Lobuche: Kuyimitsa komaliza pamaso pa Gorak Shep, ndikupereka chithunzithunzi cha malo otsetsereka omwe ali kutsogoloku.
- Gorak Shep: Kukhazikika komaliza pamaso pa EBC, komwe apaulendo amathanso kukwera kupita ku Kala Patthar kuti akawone bwino za Everest.
Acclimatization ndi Thanzi
Kukhazikika ndikofunikira paulendo wotetezeka komanso wosangalatsa wopita ku EBC. Kukwera kwapang'onopang'ono kumalola oyenda kuyenda kuti azolowere kuchepa kwa mpweya komanso kuchepetsa chiopsezo cha matenda amtunda. Masiku opumira ku Namche Bazaar ndi Dingboche amapereka mwayi wokwera kukwera, komwe kumathandizira thupi kuti lizolowere malo okwera.
Ma Trekkers ayenera kusamala za thanzi lawo, kukhala opanda madzi, kudya bwino, ndi kuyang'anira zizindikiro za matenda okwera pamwamba. Thandizo la otsogolera odziwa zambiri komanso kupezeka kwa zipatala m'midzi yofunika kwambiri kumathandizira kuti pakhale ulendo wotetezeka.
Zochitika Zachikhalidwe
Ulendo wa EBC umapereka zokumana nazo zachikhalidwe, pomwe apaulendo amadutsa m'midzi ya Sherpa ndikumacheza ndi anthu amderalo. Chikhalidwe cha Sherpa chimagwirizana kwambiri ndi Buddhism, ndipo apaulendo amatha kupita ku nyumba za amonke, kuzungulira mawilo opemphera, ndikuchitira umboni miyambo yachikhalidwe. Kuchereza alendo kwa anthu a Sherpa ndi misika yosangalatsa yam'deralo kumawonjezera kuchuma kwachikhalidwe chaulendowu.
Kutsiliza
Mapiri a Mount Everest olembedwa ndi Kenton Cool ndi Kami Rita Sherpa ndi zopambana zochititsa chidwi zomwe zikuwonetsa kuthekera kodabwitsa kwa kupirira kwaumunthu komanso gawo lofunikira la Sherpas pakukwera mtunda wautali. Zomwe akwaniritsa zimabweretsa chidwi pazovuta ndi kupambana kwa kukwera nsonga yapamwamba kwambiri padziko lonse lapansi, komanso kugogomezera kufunikira kwa machitidwe okwera mapiri okhazikika komanso odalirika.
Ulendo wa Everest Base Camp ndi kukwera kumsonkhanowu kudzera mumsewu wa Southeast Ridge umapereka zochitika zosayerekezeka, kujambula okwera ndi oyenda padziko lonse lapansi. Zochitika izi sizimangoyesa malire akuthupi ndi m'malingaliro komanso zimapatsanso mwayi wolumikizana ndi kukongola kwakukulu kwa mapiri a Himalaya komanso chikhalidwe cholemera cha Nepal.
Pamene tikukondwerera zochitika zazikuluzikuluzi, m'pofunika kuzindikira kukwera kwamapiri ku Nepal. Makampaniwa ndi gwero lofunikira la ndalama ndi ntchito, zomwe zimayendetsa kukula kwachuma komanso kupereka mwayi kwa anthu amderali. Komabe, limaperekanso zovuta zomwe zimafunikira kuyang'anira mosamala kuti okwera mapiriwo azikhala otetezeka komanso kuteteza chilengedwe cha mapiri.
Pamapeto pake, nkhani za Kenton Cool ndi Kami Rita Sherpa zimatilimbikitsa kukankhira malire a zomwe zingatheke, kulemekeza ndi kuteteza zodabwitsa zachilengedwe za dziko lathu lapansi, ndikuyamikira zopereka zodabwitsa za iwo omwe amapangitsa kuti izi zitheke.
