Mugwagwa unopfuura nemuKhumbu Icefall, nzira inoenda kunhongonya yepasirese, ine mukurumbira wakashata zvekuti kunyangwe vane ruzivo Sherpas vanozeza kufamba kana zuva rapenya.
Khumbu Icefall, rwizi rweaizi — kiromita imwe chete kana kudarika, runowanzoyambuka pakati pehusiku kana mangwanani-ngwanani vakwiri vemakomo vachiisa marambi paheti dzavo.
Kazhinji, nzira inoyambuka pakati pe 3 am na 5 am, nguva iyo mazaya echando uye mazaya echando akarembera akadzikama uye njodzi dzeavalanche dzakaderera.
Masikati, sezvo zuva rinopisa gomo, mazaya echando akarembera anotanga kunyunguduka uye aizi inotanga kuparara, zvichiita kuti pave nenjodzi.
Musi waKubvumbi 18, 2014, hosha yakakonzerwa neserac inodonha yakaviga 16 sherpa guides muKhumbu Icefall zvakakonzera kukanzurwa kwenzendo dzemwaka.
The Himalayan Database yakanyora kufa kwe44 paIcefall kubva ku1953 kusvika ku2016. Asi pane mashoko akanaka.
Anenge makumi manomwe emakore mushure meEdmund Hillary naTenzing Norgay Sherpa vakava vanhu vekutanga kuita summit Everest, vachishandisa nzira yavo yekumaodzanyemba kwakadziva kumabvazuva kweRidge, chikwata cheNepali-French vakati vakatsvaga imwe nzira yekunzvenga Khumbu Icefall ine hunyengeri.
Iyo Khumbu Icefall inotambanuka kubva pa5,500 kusvika 5,800 metres uye iri pamusoro peEverest base camp, uko mazana evakwikwidzi vanoisa matende echinguvana gore negore munguva yekukwira kwechirimo. Dambudziko rekutanga kune wese anokwira ndere kubata inouraya Icefall.
"Imwe nzira yatakaedza muna Mbudzi kuti ipfuure nemukurumbira wakashata Khumbu Icefall ichaedzwa mumwaka wekukwira kwechirimo gore rinouya kuona kana ichikwanisika nekutengesa," ane mukurumbira mukwiri wegomo wekuFrance Marc Batard akaudza Post.
"Tinotenda kuti inzira inoponesa hupenyu."
MunaSeptember 1988, zvakatora Marc, ane makore makumi manomwe ekuberekwa kwegomo muVilleneuve-sur-Lot, maawa 22 chete nemaminitsi 29 kuti asvike panhongonya yeEverest asina kushandisa okisijeni yemubhodhoro, izvo zvakaita kuti apinde muGuinness Book of Records. Rekodhi yakamira isina kuputswa kwemakore gumi.
Mushure me1988, akawana wechipiri Everest summit kubudirira 1990.
Iye zvino, Marc adzokera kuEverest mushure memakumi matatu emakore. “Donzvo rangu panguva ino nderekuchengetedza hupenyu hwevanokwira mikwidza,” akadaro Marc, uyo ane vana vatatu nevazukuru vapfumbamwe. "Ndine chivimbo chekuti nzira yacho ichange ichishanda."
Marc anorongawo kudzokorora budiriro yake yeEverest apo ari kuronga kukwira Everest nekutevera nzira yaakambopayona. “Ndiri kukwira mamita 8,848.86 Everest Chirimo chinotevera pasina rutsigiro rweokisijeni yemubhodhoro," Marc akadaro.
Kana akabudirira, Marc haangozova mukwikwiri wekare kupfuura vose kusvika pakakwirira kudarika dzimwe nyika asingashandisi oxygen yokuwedzera asiwo achange ari piyona wenzira itsva.
Italian Abele Blanc parizvino ane rekodhi yemukwikwidzi mukuru, uyo akasvika pamusangano uyu muna 2010 aine makore 55 nemazuva 264 asina kushandisa oxygen yemubhodhoro.
Marc anoti iye nechikwata chake vakaongorora nzira itsva muna Mbudzi. Urongwa, zvisinei, hwakatanga muchirimo. Marc akauya kuNepal muchirimo ndokuita ongororo yemuchadenga yenzira yakarongwa.
Basa romumunda rakatanga muna Mbudzi.
Boka revanhu vanomwe rinotungamirirwa naMarc naPasang Nuru Sherpa, kusanganisira mwanakomana waMarc, vakakwira nzira itsva kubva munaNovember 15. Chikamu chekutanga chekuedza chakagara kusvika 21 November.
Chikwata chakaita Gorak Shep pa5,140 metres musasa wavo wekutanga.
“Takazofamba nemugomo reMt Nuptse, gomo riri pedyo,” akadaro Marc. Iyo Nuptse (7,861m), Everest, uye Lhotse (8,516m) ndiyo Khumbu katatu korona yakatarisana.
"Nzira nyowani inotevera dombo pazasi peMt Nuptse," akawedzera Marc. “Kukwira kwematombo, mawere akatwasuka, kwakaoma zvishoma. Asi kana akwirwa, nzira inobva ikoko inova nyore kufamba nayo.”
Anenge, zvinotora maawa manomwe kuvhara chinhambwe chingangoita 1,000 metres kusvika panzvimbo pa6,200 metres uchishandisa nzira nyowani kubva Gorak Shep base, inobatana neCamp 1 pa6,065 metres pamusoro peIcefall.
"Izvi zvichapfuura zvachose Khumbu Icefall yehunyengeri. Hapana njodzi yekuparara kwemvura muNuptse ridge," akadaro Marc.
Musasa 1 musasa wenguva pfupi umo vazhinji vanokwira vanopedza husiku.
Sekureva kwaMarc, panzira dzinosvika chiuru-refu dzemamita, vakawana mazana manomwe emamita chete. Mamita mazana matatu asara akanga atove kushandiswa.
Marc anoronga misasa miviri-imwe pa6,200 metres uye imwe pa7,800 metres.
"Asi tinoda michina yakasimba uye mari yekuita kuti nzira iyi ibudirire," akadaro Marc.
Mukwiri wegomo akati zvinoda chero pakati pe300,000 ne500,000 euros kuisa zvachose hoko dzesimbi kana mapiton ematombo nekuboora dombo.
Nesimbi dzesimbi, inogona kushandiswa nemapoka makuru uye akaremerwa maSherpas anopa matani ematende, zvekudya uye masilinda eokisijeni kusvika kuCamp 3 neCamp 4, nzvimbo dzekuzororera dzevakwikwidzi.
"Kusvika pari zvino, Khumbu Icefall inoonekwa seimwe yenzvimbo dzine njodzi dzekukwira pasi rose," akadaro Pasang Nuru Sherpa, uyo anoronga kukwira Everest kechigumi neshanu gore rinouya.
Vane ruzivo Sherpa madhairekitori anogadzirisa manera pamusoro pemakupu makuru mu Khumbu Icefall uko kune mwaka kushanduka uye kuchinja crevasses.
Chikwata chevanachiremba vechando chinotanga kugadzirira nzira kuburikidza neIcefall nekuisa mazana emamanera pamawere.
"Kune vakwikwidzi veSherpa vakakwirira, zvinotora maawa mana kana mashanu kufamba muchando," akadaro Pasang Nuru. "Ichi chirongwa chekuyedza. Kana chikabudirira, hachingodzikisire vashandi vari munzvimbo dzakakwirira chete asiwo kudzivirira kufa."
"Zvakaoma kukwira mawere ematombo asi zviri nani pane kufamba nemuIcefall. Hazvinetse futi. Nzira iyi haina njodzi," akadaro Pasang Nuru. "Kana nzira itsva yabudirira, mumwe munhu anofanira kupa mari. Ichi chirongwa chikuru. Isu tiri kutarisira rutsigiro rwehurumende zvakare."
Marc anoda kudoma nzira itsva yeSundare kuti ape ruremekedzo kune akanonoka Sherpa gidhi akamufemera kukwira Everest uye kutyora rekodhi yekumhanya muna 1988.
Marc akwira makomo matanhatu e14 epasi pamusoro pe8,000 metres — matatu emakomo mugore rimwe chete.
Zviuru zvisere zvake zvekutanga zvaive Gasherbrum II muPakistan muna 1975. Akaita yekutanga kukwira kwechando kuDhaulagiri munaDecember 1987.
Muna 1988, Marc akakwira Makalu (8,463m) uye munaGunyana gore iroro, akakwira pamusoro peCho Oyu (8,201m) pamuganhu weTibet-Nepal. Akakwira Shishapangma muChina muna 1998.
“Ndakatsunga. Ndiri kudzoka muchirimo gore rinouya kuzoongorora chirongwa chinoponesa upenyu,” akadaro Marc.
Kunobva: The Kathmandu Post
