Umzila onqamula eKhumbu Icefall, umzila oholela esiqongweni esiphakeme kunazo zonke emhlabeni, udume kabi kangangokuthi ngisho noSherpas abanolwazi bayangabaza ukunyakaza lapho libalele.
IKhumbu Icefall, umfula weqhwa—ikhilomitha noma ngaphezulu, ivame ukuwelwa ebusuku noma ekuseni abantu abaqwala izintaba befaka izibani ezigqokweni zabo.
Ngokuvamile, umzila weqa phakathi kuka-3 ekuseni no-5 am, isikhathi lapho iqhwa kanye nezinguzunga zeqhwa ezilengayo zizinzile kanye nezingozi ze-avalanche ziphansi.
Emini, njengoba ilanga lifudumeza intaba, izinguzunga zeqhwa ezilengayo ziqala ukuncibilika futhi iqhwa liqala ukubhidlika, okubangela ingozi yeqhwa.
Ngomhla ziyi-18 kuMbasa, 2014, iqhwa elibangelwe iserac eliwayo laligqibe ama-sherpa guide angu-16 eKhumbu Icefall okuholele ekuhoxisweni kohambo lwale sizini.
I-Himalayan Database iqophe ukufa kwe-44 ku-Icefall kusukela ngo-1953 kuya ku-2016. Kodwa kunezindaba ezinhle.
Cishe eminyakeni engamashumi ayisikhombisa ngemva kokuba u-Edmund Hillary noTenzing Norgay Sherpa bengabantu bokuqala ukuqombola i-Everest , besebenzisa umzila wabo ojwayelekile wase-Southeast Ridge, iqembu laseNepal-French lathi selihlole enye indlela yokugwema i-Khumbu Ice Fall eyingozi.
IKhumbu Icefall isuka ku-5,500 kuya ku-5,800 wamamitha futhi ingaphezu nje kwekamu lase-Everest, lapho amakhulu abaqwali bezintaba bebeka khona amatende esikhashana ngonyaka ngesikhathi sokukhuphuka kwentwasahlobo. Inselele yokuqala yawo wonke umqwali ukulwa ne-Icefall ebulalayo.
"Enye indlela esiye sayihlola ngoNovemba ukudlula iKhumbu Icefall edume kabi izohlolwa ngesizini yokuqwala intwasahlobo ngonyaka ozayo ukuze kubhekwe ukuthi ingakwazi yini ukuhwebelana," kusho umqwali wezintaba ongumFulentshi uMarc Batard etshela iPost.
"Sikholwa ukuthi iyindlela esindisa impilo."
Ngo-September 1988, kwathatha uMarc, umqwali wezintaba oneminyaka engu-70 ubudala owazalelwa e-Villeneuve-sur-Lot, amahora angu-22 kuphela nemizuzu engu-29 ukufika esiqongweni se-Everest ngaphandle kokusebenzisa umoya-mpilo osebhodleleni, okwamenza wangena e-Guinness Book of Records. Irekhodi lahlala iminyaka engu-10 lingaphulwa.
Ngemuva kuka-1988, uthole impumelelo yesibili ye-Everest ngo-1990.
Manje, uMarc usebuyele e-Everest ngemva kweminyaka engamashumi amathathu. “Inhloso yami ngalesi sikhathi ukusindisa izimpilo zabaqwala izintaba,” kusho uMarc, onezingane ezintathu nabazukulu abayisishiyagalolunye. "Ngiyethemba ukuthi umzila uzosebenza ngokuthengisa."
UMarc uhlela nokuphinda impumelelo yakhe e-Everest njengoba ehlela ukukhuphuka i-Everest ngokulandela indlela aseke wayiqala. “Ngizokhuphuka i -Everest engamamitha angu-8,848.86 entwasahlobo ezayo ngaphandle kokusekelwa umoya-mpilo osemabhodleleni,” kusho uMarc.
Uma ephumelela, uMarc ngeke nje abe umqwali wezintaba omdala kunabo bonke ukufinyelela esiqongweni esiphakeme kunazo zonke emhlabeni ngaphandle kokusebenzisa umoya-mpilo owengeziwe kodwa uyophinde abe iphayona lomzila omusha.
Njengamanje u-Abele Blanc wase-Italy uphethe irekhodi lomqwali omdala kunabo bonke, owafika engqungqutheleni ngo-2010 eneminyaka engu-55 nezinsuku ezingu-264 ngaphandle kokusebenzisa umoya-mpilo wasebhodleleni.
UMarc uthi yena nethimba lakhe bahlole umzila omusha ngoNovemba. Nokho, lolu hlelo luqale entwasahlobo. UMarc wafika eNepal entwasahlobo futhi wenza inhlolovo yasemoyeni yomzila ohlongozwayo.
Umsebenzi waqala ngoNovemba.
Ithimba lamalungu ayisikhombisa eliholwa ngu-Marc no-Pasang Nuru Sherpa, kuhlanganise nendodana ka-Marc, bagibele umzila omusha kusukela ngo-November 15. Ukuqulwa kwecala kwesigaba sokuqala kwaze kwaba umhla zingama-21 kuNovemba.
Iqembu lenze uGorak Shep ebangeni elingamamitha angu-5,140 ikamu labo.
“Sibe sesihamba ngomgwaqo iMt Nuptse, intaba engumakhelwane,” kusho uMarc. AbakwaNuptse (7,861m), Everest, kanye noLhotse (8,516m) bangumqhele wamaKhumbu amathathu abhekene.
“Umzila omusha ulandela intaba-mlilo engaphansi kweMt Nuptse,” kwengeza uMarc. Kunzima kancane ukuthi i-roy spur, iwa elime mpo. Kodwa ngemva kokukhuphuka, umzila osuka lapho uba lula ukuwuhamba.”
Cishe, kuthatha amahora ayisikhombisa ukumboza ibanga elingamamitha ayi-1,000 ukufika endaweni engamamitha ayi-6,200 kusetshenziswa umzila omusha osuka endaweni yaseGorak Shep, ehlangana neCamp 1 ngamamitha ayi-6,065 ngaphezu kwe-Icefall.
"Lokhu kuzodlula ngokuphelele iKhumbu Icefall ekhohlisayo. Abukho ubungozi bokuqubuka kweqhwa endaweni yaseNuptse," kusho uMarc.
Ikamu loku-1 liyikhempu yesikhashana lapho abaqwali abaningi bechitha khona ubusuku bonke.
NgokukaMarc, emizileni ebalelwa ku-1,000 700 ubude, bathole amamitha angama-300 kuphela. Amamitha angu-XNUMX asele abesevele esetshenziswa.
UMarc uhlela amakamu amabili-enye ibe ngamamitha ayi-6,200 kanti enye ibe ngamamitha ayi-7,800.
“Kodwa sidinga amathuluzi aqinile kanye nokutshalwa kwezimali ukwenza lo mzila ukwazi ukuhwebelana,” kusho uMarc.
Umqwali wezintaba uthe kudinga noma yikuphi phakathi kuka-300,000 no-500,000 wama-euro ukufaka unomphela izingwegwe zensimbi noma ama-rock pitons ngokumba i-rock spur.
Ngezinsimbi zensimbi, ingasetshenziswa amaqembu amakhulu kanye nama-Sherpas alayishwe kakhulu ahlinzeka ngamathani amatende, ukudla namasilinda komoyampilo kuze kufike ku-Camp 3 kanye ne-Camp 4, izindawo zokuphumula zabaqwali.
“Kuze kube manje, iKhumbu Icefall ithathwa njengenye yezindawo zokuqwala eziyingozi kakhulu emhlabeni,” kusho uPasang Nuru Sherpa, ohlela ukuqwala i-Everest ihlandla le-15 ngonyaka ozayo.
Abaqondisi beSherpa abanolwazi balungisa amaladi phezu kwezikhala ezinkulu e- Khumbu Icefall lapho kuba khona imifantu eshintshashintshayo ngokwezinkathi zonyaka.
Iqembu lodokotela be-icefall liqale lilungise umzila onqamula e-Icefall ngokufaka amakhulu ezitebhisi emifantwini.
"Kubaqwali be-Sherpa abasezingeni eliphakeme, kuthatha amahora amane noma amahlanu ukuzulazula eqhweni," kusho uPasang Nuru. "Lona wuhlelo lokuhlola. Uma luphumelela, ngeke lwehlise umthwalo wabasebenzi abasezindaweni eziphakeme kuphela kodwa futhi luvimbele ukufa."
"Kunzima ukukhuphuka i-rock spur kodwa kungcono kakhulu kunokuhamba e-Icefall. Akuwona neze ubuqili. Lo mzila uphephile," kusho uPasang Nuru. "Uma umzila omusha ubonakala kahle, kufanele kube khona owuxhasayo. Lona ngumsebenzi omkhulu. Silindele noxhaso lukahulumeni."
Uhambo alutholakali.
UMarc ufuna ukuqamba umzila omusha i-Sundare ukuze ahloniphe umqondisi we-Sherpa ongasekho owamgqugquzela ukuthi aqwale i-Everest futhi aphule irekhodi lejubane ngo-1988.
UMarc usenyuke izintaba eziyisithupha kwezingu-14 emhlabeni ngaphezu kwamamitha ayizi-8,000 XNUMX—ezintathu zezintaba onyakeni owodwa.
Inkulungwane yakhe yokuqala eyisishiyagalombili kwakunguGasherbrum II ePakistan ngo-1975. Wenza umqansa wokuqala wasebusika eDhaulagiri ngoDisemba 1987.
Ngo-1988, uMarc wakhuphuka iMakalu (8,463m) kwathi ngoSepthemba ngalowo nyaka, wakhuphuka isiqongo seCho Oyu (8,201m) emngceleni weTibet-Nepal. Wagibela iShishapangma eChina ngo-1998.
“Ngizimisele. Ngizobuya entwasahlobo ngonyaka ozayo ngizohlola umsebenzi osindisa ukuphila,” kusho uMarc.
Umthombo: The Kathmandu Post
