Gabatarwa
Yankin Everest na Nepal gida ne ga abubuwan ban mamaki a duniya. Daga tafiye-tafiye masu sauƙi masu sauƙi zuwa tsayin daka mai tsayi, balaguron Everest yana cike da ruɗani masu ban sha'awa waɗanda ke jawo gogaggun masu bincike daga ko'ina cikin duniya. Mafi kuzari da kalubale na kowa, duk da haka, shine Everest Expedition. Hawan Dutsen Everest, ba tare da shakka ba, ma'auni ne na nasarorin hawa.
Kololuwar Everest, mai inuwa a kan kwarin Khumbu, ya wajaba zuwa tsaunin tuddai masu jujjuyawa da rhododendrons masu ban sha'awa, dutsen dutse, da tutocin addu'a. Hanyoyin da aka tattake da kyau suna korar masu hawan hawa da masu takawa sama da zuwa kan kololuwar dusar ƙanƙara na dutse mafi girma a duniya.
An yi masa ado da ƙafafun addu'o'i, makiyayan yak, da garuruwan Sherpa masu nisa, Khumbu yana ba wa masu hawan dutse wuri mai jujjuyawa da aka ƙawata da dukiyar gargajiya. Bude don hawa duka biyu daga gefen kudu na Nepal da kuma gefen arewacin Tibet. Expedition na Everest ƙwarewa ce mai ƙalubale wacce ta rungumi ruɗani na gaggawa da kuzari wanda kwarin Himalayan ke bayarwa.
Haɓaka Balaguro na Everest
- Dauki a cikin zamantakewa da kuma na halitta girma na Khumbu.
- Hau Dutsen Mafi Girma a Duniya, babban ci gaba ne kawai gungun mutane a Duniya sun yi.
- Kwarewa kai tsaye al'adun Sherpa na yankin
- Dauki cikin al'adun gargajiyar Himalayan na Sagarmatha National Park, Cibiyar Tarihin Duniya ta UNESCO.
Everest Expedition ta hanyar Kudancin Side
Asalin kudanci na Everest, wanda ke cikin Nepal, shine mafi yawan bikin bikin Himalayas don masu hawan dutse. Kamar yadda aka ambata, Nepal tana jan masu hawa da yawa daga ko'ina cikin duniya waɗanda duk suka garzaya zuwa Khumbu don samun ra'ayi na musamman da abubuwan ban mamaki na tsaunin Everest.
Bangaren kudanci na aikin gabaɗaya yana farawa ne da ɗan gajeren tashi daga Kathmandu zuwa Lukla, kuma balaguron zuwa tsaunin dutse yana cike da al'adu da al'adun Sherpa. Tafiya daga wannan gari zuwa na gaba da wucewa tare da ƙananan ƙauyuka da wuraren kiwo - kasada ba kawai game da ita ba ce. taron Everest. Har ila yau, game da godiya da ɗauka a cikin girman Himalayan da kuma kyakkyawar al'adun Sherpa wanda ya ci gaba a cikin tsaunuka na dogon lokaci.
Tafiya na Expedition Everest ta Side ta Kudu
Babban fahimtar hawan Dutsen Everest tun lokacin nunawa a Kathmandu ya riga ya wuce kimanin kwanaki 60, yana yin balaguro na kusan makonni tara (fiye ko žasa). A kowane hali, yana da kyau a tuna cewa yayin irin wannan ƙoƙarin, yanayin zai iya zama rashin daidaituwa, kuma abubuwa daban-daban na iya lalata hawan hawan.
Kwanaki 3 zuwa 12 kwanakin tafiya ne, inda masu hawa za su yi tafiya a kwarin Khumbu da tudu. Kuma daga wannan batu gaba, lokacin hawan hawan yana farawa daga Everest tushe sansanin. Ana sa ran wannan lokacin hawan zai wuce kusan kwanaki 51 zuwa 60.
Makon ƙarshe na balaguron yawanci ana kashe shi akan share sansanin tushe da komawa Kathmandu. Duk da haka, daidaikun mutane da masu hawan dutse suna buƙatar lura cewa ƙarshen hawan da tafiya ba yana nufin za su iya komawa rayuwa ta yau da kullun ba. Jiki yana buƙatar kyakkyawar dama don hutawa kuma ya sami damar zuwa yanayi daban-daban sau ɗaya. Hakanan yana da mahimmanci don ba da lokacin tunanin ku don ɗaukar abin da ya faru akan yaƙin neman zaɓe da tsara ainihin gaskiya. Wannan na iya ɗaukar har zuwa rabin wata ko ma fiye da haka.
Anan ga taƙaitaccen shirin Expedition na Everest daga kudu
Kathmandu zuwa Everest Base Camp
Babban balaguron balaguron tafiya shine balaguron balaguro zuwa sansanin tushe. Tafiya ta fara daga Lukla. Hanyar tafiya tana ɗaukar masu hawan hawa zuwa garuruwa da ƙauyuka da yawa na kwarin Khumbu ta hanyar Sagarmatha National Park. Tafiya ta wurare kamar garin Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, da Dingboche, a tsakanin sauran da yawa, masu hawan dutse za su iya fuskantar shari'o'i marasa adadi inda za su iya jin daɗin ra'ayoyin da ke tasowa. Everest massif. Haɗe tare da al'adun Sherpa, balaguron balaguro zuwa sansanin tushe yana cike da nutsuwa da kyawun yanayi.
EBC zuwa Camp 1
Daga sansanin tushe, mataki na gaba na balaguron balaguro na gaba yana a Camp 1. Yawanci, masu hawan dutse suna bi ta cikin Khumbu Icefall don shirya don yanayin tsayin daka na dutsen. Icefall na Khumbu yana saman glacier na Khumbu da ƙafar yammacin Cwm. An tsara shi ta dabi'a a tsayin mita 5,486 (17,999 ft.). Dusar kankara mai yuwuwa shine mafi hatsarin lokacin South Col course zuwa balaguron Everest. Glacier na Khumbu wanda ke tsara ƙanƙara yana motsawa a cikin 0.9 zuwa 1.2 m (3 zuwa 4 ft.) yana sauri zuwa dutsen akai-akai.
Camp 1 zuwa Camp 2
Sashe na gaba na balaguro yana isa zuwa Camp 2. Wannan sansanin na gaba an shirya shi a yammacin cwm na kudancin fuskar dutsen. Yanke da manyan tsaunuka na gefe, yammacin cwm cikakke ne, daidaitacce, kwanon kwarin ƙanƙara mai ƙaƙƙarfan ƙanƙara yana ƙarewa a gindin Fuskar Lhotse na Dutsen Everest. Wannan kwanon yana ɗauke da hanyar shiga cikin babban Yammacin Cwm. A wannan bangare, masu hawan hawa ya kamata su haye zuwa matsananciyar dama, zuwa gindin Nuptse, zuwa hanyar da aka kayyade da aka sani da kusurwar Nuptse. Daga wannan batu, masu hawan dutse za su iya ganin saman 2,400 mita (7,900 ft.) fuskar Everest - babban kallon Everest ta sama tun lokacin da aka nuna a Base Camp.
Camp 2 zuwa Camp 3
Faɗin gefen yammacin Lhotse ana kiransa da Fuskar Lhotse. Wani yanki ne wanda ba za a iya gujewa ba na tsarin kudu maso gabas na al'ada sama da Everest. Camp III yana zaune mafi yawa a kan wannan hawan dutsen kankara mai sanyi. Fuskar Lhotse tana tashi daidai ƙafa 3,700 daga gindinta zuwa sama, tana karkata zuwa ga filaye 40 da 50 tare da wasu kumbura masu digiri 80 da ba safai ba. Dukkanin hanya an gyara shi tare da igiyoyi, kuma masu hawan hawan ya kamata su shiga cikin ci gaban ci gaba na ja da haɓakawa. Matakin harbi yayin da mutum ke mai da hankali kan kankara mai wuyar shuɗi shine babban ci gaban da ake buƙata don wannan hawa mara ƙarfi zuwa Kudancin Col.
Bugu da ƙari, Dutsen Yellow Rock yana gadin hanyar. Dutsen Yellow Rock, dutsen dutse mai yashi, wani ɓangaren fuskar Lhotse ne marar kuskure. Masu hawan hawa suna buƙatar igiya kusan mita 100 don kewaya ta. Wannan shi ne babban dutsen da mai hawan dutse ya yi jawabi har zuwa Everest. Hanyar tana bayyana a fili lokacin da mutum ya isa a wannan lokacin a cikin tafiya; Ƙunƙarar mai hawan dutse ya bugi dutse mai ƙarfi. Mafi girman maƙallan rawaya yana kan ƙafa 25,000.
Camp 3 zuwa Camp 4
Makasudin babban sansanin, in ba haka ba ana kiransa Camp IV, shine wurin zama mai share iska mai jifa da dutse a Everest da Lhotse, mai nisan ƙafa 26,000. "Col" Welsh ne don wurin zama ko wucewa. Balaguron Binciken Binciken Biritaniya na 1921 ne ya kira wannan yanki, wanda ya gan shi daga wani wuri mai nisa kusan mil bakwai. Yin amfani da duk ayyukan a matsayin babban sansanin, Camp 4 yana da ƙafar ƙafa 3000 zuwa taron.
Daga baya, masu hawan dutsen sun isa kudu maso gabas Ridge a ƙafa 27,700 a wani wuri da aka sani da "The Balcony." A wannan mataki, masu hawan dutse za su iya hutawa kuma su ji daɗin hasken fitowar rana da ke haskaka koli zuwa gabas da kudu. Daga nan, gefen dusar ƙanƙara ya tashi ƙafa 1,000 zuwa babban taron Kudu kuma yana karkata zuwa arewa.
Zango 4 zuwa taron Kudu
Ƙaramar nasara ta farko na masu hawan dutse na ranar, taron Kudu, babban tebur na ping pong ne na dusar ƙanƙara da ƙanƙara a ƙafa 28,700. Daga nan, masu hawan hawan dutse za su iya samun hangen nesa a kan abubuwan da suka hana su na karshe a gaban su: Mataki na Hillary, Cornice Traverse, da kuma maɗaukaki na baya zuwa matsayi mafi girma. Yana da al'ada don canza kwalabe na iskar oxygen don samun sabon akwati don hawa na ƙarshe kuma komawa zuwa taron Kudu.
Hanyar Cornice, mai tsawon ƙafa 400 har ma da ɓangaren dutse da dusar ƙanƙara mai yanke iska, shine ɓangaren ban tsoro na hawan hawan. Masu hawa hawa su yi taka tsantsan ketare gefen dusar ƙanƙara a tsakanin duwatsun da aka ja da baya. Wannan shine mafi girman ɓoyayyiyar ɓangarori na ɗaukacin hawan hawan, kuma zamewa zuwa dama zai aika mai hawa dutse yana faɗuwar Fuskar Kangshung mai ƙafa 10,000. Hakazalika, digo har zuwa gefe guda zai aika da mutum mai nisan ƙafa 8,000 zuwa Fuskar Kudu maso Yamma idan ba a gyara igiyoyin ba.
Taron Kudu zuwa Dutsen Everest Summit
Mafi kyawun abin da ya fi dacewa a kan Everest, Matakin Hillary, a ƙafa 28,750, ƙanƙara ne mai ƙafa 40 na dusar ƙanƙara da kankara. Na farko ya hau a 1953 by Edmund Hillary da kuma Tsarin Norgay, Matakin Hillary shine cikas na ƙarshe ga masu hawan hawa don kaiwa ga ƙididdige ƙididdige ƙimar kololuwar Everest. Masu hawan hawan na yanzu suna bi ta tsayayyen igiya a nan don tashi matakin Hillary. Masu hawan dutse za su iya yin mamaki game da nasarar Sir Hillary da Tenzing wajen hawan wannan kyakkyawan hani na hawan dutse. Bayan haka, sun yi hakan ba tare da kafaffen igiyoyi ba kuma sun yi amfani da abin da ake kallo a yanzu a matsayin kayan aikin hawan kankara.
View daga saman
Rufe sararin samaniya, girman teburi na waje, babban wurin dusar ƙanƙara da ke lulluɓe da nisa zuwa arewa, kudu maso yamma, da gabas. Nuni mai tsayin digiri 360 yana nuna tudun Tibet zuwa arewa, da ƙofofin Himalayan mara misaltuwa na hasumiya na Kanchenjunga zuwa gabas, Makalu zuwa kudu maso gabas, da Cho Oyu yamma. A safiya mara kyau, ya zama kamar ana iya gani a babban yanki na ƙasar dusar ƙanƙara.
Sauka daga Dutsen Everest zuwa Base Camp
Yawancin lokaci zai ɗauki masu hawan hawa kusan mintuna 30 don saukowa daga mafi girma. Tun daga wannan lokacin, za ku sauko zuwa sama a cikin kusan sa'o'i biyu. Sa'an nan, saukowa zuwa Kudancin Col daga Balcony tafiyar sa'a guda ne kawai.
Yawancin masu hawan dutse suna kwana a Kudancin Col bayan taron Dutsen Everest. Ko ta yaya, wasu ƙungiyoyi sun gangara zuwa sansani biyu kuma su zauna a can na ɗan lokaci. Don haka, yawancin masu hawan dutse ba za su buƙaci ƙarin oxygen ba idan sun kasance a sansanin 2.
Matsayin Wahalar Balaguro na Everest
Dutsen Everest yana kan tsayin 8848.86 m sama da matakin teku. Filin jirgin sama a Lukla yana kan wani tsayin da ya ninka na Kathmandu. Yunƙurin yana haɓaka mita 600-800 kowace rana, kuma ƙimar iskar oxygen yana raguwa yayin da kuke hawa kan hanya. Ciwon tsaunuka mai tsanani da tsayin daka ke kawowa zai iya yin kisa idan ba a kula da shi da kyau akan lokaci ba. Saboda haka, samun karbuwa a cikin tazara a lokacin balaguron zai taimaka muku da yawa yayin balaguro.
Yaƙin Dutsen Everest yana ɗaukar lokaci mai tsawo da tsarawa. Yana da matsaloli da yawa, gami da yanayin sanyi mai ban mamaki, ƙarancin sanyi mai sanyi, da yanayin hawa mai wahala. Masu hawan hawa suna buƙatar daidaitawa na tsayin tsayi kafin nunawa a taron koli da komawa baya.
Lokacin Everest, ga mafi yawancin, yana farawa a ƙarshen Maris. Yana farawa ne bayan masu hawan hawa sun nuna a sansanin Everest bayan tafiya zuwa Lukla. A wannan lokacin, masu hawan dutse suna tafiya a cikin Phakding, Namche, Tengboche, Dingboche, da Gorakshep kafin su fito a EBC. Kamar yadda aka ambata, Kudancin Everest Base Camp (mita 5,300) shine farkon matakin yakin.
Ƙanƙarar da ƙanƙara mai motsi wani yanki ne na cikas da masu hawa ke buƙatar fuskantar. Masu hawan hawa za su dace da sansanonin a matakai daban-daban na balaguron balaguron su. Suna daidaitawa a cikin kwanaki 4th da 5th a sansanin tushe kuma suna hawa mafi yawa akan taron glacial Khumbu. Bugu da ƙari, a cikin yanayin daidaitawa na ƴan kwanaki a can, sun ƙaura zuwa sansanin 1.
Dutsen Everest yana ɗaya daga cikin yankuna mafi ƙalubale a wannan duniyar. Zazzabi a kan Dutsen Everest yana ƙarƙashin daskarewa duk shekara. Matsakaicin zafin jiki a mafi tsayin dutsen a watan Janairu shine matsakaici -33 ° F (-36 ° C), kuma yana iya raguwa zuwa -76 ° F (-60 ° C). Matsakaicin zafin ƙarshe na Yuli shine -2°F (-19°C). A matsayinka na mai mulki, yana da sanyi kusa da lokacin maraice kuma yana da zafi a cikin rana. Don haka a cikin hunturu (Janairu zuwa Fabrairu), kwanakin nan a mafi girma za su yi sanyi.
Ana shirye-shiryen balaguron Everest
Don isa wurin mafi girma na Everest, ya kamata ku kasance cikin yanayin yanayin jiki, mai kishi, da babban yanayin tunani. Alamomi don shirye-shiryen aiki don balaguron sun haɗa da tafiye-tafiyen da suka gabata na nasara sama da 20,000.
tafiye-tafiye masu tsayi da suka gabata za su sami ƙwarewar sarrafa kayan aiki da kayan masarufi, kula da yanayin sanyi mai ban sha'awa da girma mai ban mamaki. Hakanan kuna haɓaka iyawa mai ƙarfi a kan dutse da bayan dutse, dusar ƙanƙara, da kankara, da yadda ake rappel tare da fakiti, ta amfani da masu hawan hawa da jumars akan tsayayyen layi. Baya ga tsayin tsayi, dusar ƙanƙara, da iya hawan ƙanƙara, kuna buƙatar ƙarfi mai ƙarfi, juriya, juriya mai tsayi mai tsayi, da ingantaccen gyare-gyaren zuciya.
Ka tuna cewa kana da kyakkyawan shiri da ake tsammanin zai taimake ka yayin balaguron tun lokacin da kake yin aiki akai-akai a ƙananan tudu. Lafiyar zuciya da jijiyoyin jini da gaske bai isa ba. Ya kamata ku yi watsi da gina jiki mai aiki a ƙananan tsayi saboda suna da mahimmanci don tabbatar da cewa jikin ku zai iya jure tsayin tsayin ƙafa 4,000.
Ribar tsayin tsayi kuma ya haɗa da haɓaka ƙarfi da juriya waɗanda ke ci gaba tare da kwanakin da ke isar da lbs 50-60. Ko da yake ba za a ba ku nauyi mai yawa a kan Everest ba, ta hanyar gyara jikin ku zuwa wannan matakin juriya, za ku tattara ƙarin shaguna waɗanda za su yi muku hidima sosai a kan dutsen. Bugu da kari, ba makawa za ka fara rasa tsoka da tsoka da kitse daga kasancewa a tsaunuka masu ban mamaki na dogon lokaci.
Kayan Aikin Balaguro na Everest
Akwai tarin kayan aikin da ake buƙata don kowane motsi zuwa Dutsen Everest. Yayin balaguron, ci gaba da buƙatar jagorar ku don jimillar abin da mutumin yake tsammanin ku kawo. Yawancin kayan aikin kuma ana iya samun damar yin haya a Nepal ko Tibet. Daga Ice tomahawks zuwa crampons, kayan aikin balaguro yana da mahimmanci don hawan nasara. Hakanan ana amfani da tsarin Carabineer, gami da kayan hawan dusar ƙanƙara. Masu hawan hawan suna taimakawa wajen tabbatar da cewa masu hawan dutse suna da lafiya, kuma masu kare kai suna tabbatar da tsaro yayin tafiya. Rigunan rana, ƙwanƙolin ɗinka, da buffs suma suna da mahimmanci.
Sauran kayan aiki masu mahimmanci don tafiya sun haɗa da tabarau na Ski, murfin fuska, da abin rufe fuska. Ana amfani da fitulun kai lokacin duhu, kuma gadon tafiya -40 tare da matashin hutawa mai hura wuta da kushin kumfa na iya kawo kwanciyar hankali a guguwar dutsen. Fitillu, jakunkuna-lita 55, fakitin duffel guda biyu, da buhunan bayan gida suna riƙe da kayan yau da kullun. Bugu da ƙari, fakitin tace ruwa kuma suna sauƙaƙe tafiyar. Hasken rana, takalma masu gudu, takalma masu tsayi, da takalman hawan hawan suma suna da mahimmanci. A ƙarshe, tabbatar cewa kun shirya riguna masu dacewa don tafiya na tsawon kwanaki 60 na hawan dutse tare da yanayin zafi daga 30 ° C zuwa -30 ° C.
Kammalawa
Dutsen Everest yana ba da kyakkyawan ƙwarewar hawan dutse. Kasancewa a saman duniya yana ɗaya daga cikin gamuwa na rayuwa mafi lada. Ƙoƙari ga Everest wani aiki ne wanda ke buƙatar babban ma'auni na sadaukarwa da tabbaci. Amma sakamakon yana da daraja da matsala. Halin da ke sama da kuma ra'ayoyin Himalayan duk lokacin tafiya zai kasance a zuciyar ku har abada. Haɗe da dukiyar al'adu da al'adun yankin, wannan hakika tafiya ce ta rayuwa.
