Island Peak Climbing

Essential Info

Perfect Season for Island Peak Climbing

The most perfect time to tackle the Island Peak will be the transitioning season of spring which begins from early March and continues till May. This season brings the gentle warmth of summer to the Khumbu Valley with moderately pleasing heat of around 16 to 17 degrees Celsius.

This period is in fact the time of renewal when nature in Everest explodes with the activity of life. The rhododendrons ignite the forest, while the longer sun-drenched days bring the most transparent sky.

On the other hand, the autumn period spanning from September and lasting till November blows the refreshing mountain breeze along with the mild enchanting heat of 5 to 15 degrees Celsius.

The forests in turn display the bright colors of orange and brown foliage with the most fantastically clear view of the mountains en route. Both these seasons in fact offer the climbers with the most reliable, stable, and dependent weather conditions, essential for a successful climb of any Himalayan summit in Nepal.

The summer months beginning from June and lasting till August bring heavy floods in the Khumbu Valley often cutting off access to some villages, so it is an inadvisable time for climbing.

Winter expeditions are only suitable for experienced climbers who can withstand the frigid heat and can skillfully use the right climbing gear when necessary.

How tough is Island Peak Climbing?

Island Peak has been grouped as a 2B summit that presents the intermediate climbing challenge to adventurers with extended but manageable rocky sections along with delicate ice formations.

On the other hand, the EBC and the Kala Patthar that we have integrated with the climbing expedition are regarded as moderate trekking journeys in the Khumbu Valley.

The climb to the summit involves tackling short yet steep rock walls along with some sharp inclined icy stretches that can reach up to 50 degrees.

When compared to its counterpart Mera Peak, the Island Peak is more technically complex where the climbers need to utilize the jumar, ice axe, man, and fixed ropes along with ladders over deep crevasses.

The final 200 m will have to be managed using the railings that can ascend 150 m vertically. If we consider the summit of Island Peak, it has sharp contours with intriguing profiles.

As for the hiking part, the route involves a challenging course running along the rugged rocky scree and slopes and sometimes over the slippery glacial landscape.

Most of the trail is well-signposted and maintained but some sections will be unmarked. On the summit attack day, the climbers will have to prepare themselves for the long grueling 10 to 12 hours of journey starting from midnight.

Then, there is also the challenge of high elevation when trekkers will constantly find themselves at an elevation exceeding 5000 m. Therefore, an exceptional amount of fitness, health, endurance, strength, and stamina are imperative for our Island Peak climbing with EBC journey.

Can beginners take part in our Island Peak Climbing Expedition?

Our Island Peak climbing via EBC is an expedition that welcomes anyone possessing above-average physical condition. The experience with the heights is not necessary but of course, it can be of great help even if you have some in glacial tours.

Please note that this expedition can also be completed without a detour to EBC and Kala Patthar. Even though the two aspiring destinations have been omitted from the trip, there will still be the challenge of dry and thin Khumbu Himalayan air, particularly between 5,000 and 6,000 m.

Adding to the intricacy is the frigid heat and reduced concentration of oxygen. We always schedule our Island Peak climbing expedition during the safest period, still the high Himalayan instability will always exist in any season. So we like to emphasize that this challenge is not for faint-hearted adventurers.

Additionally, some proficiency in using the climbing gear will be helpful. However, our climbing guide will provide all the prerequisite training before you attempt the summit.

In summary, this journey is ideal for those who are searching for a demanding yet most paid-off experience. If you wish, you can also participate in rock climbing training before the summit attempt or enjoy easier mountain hikes in your home country or in Nepal.

AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness/ Altitude Sickness) and Acclimatization

Our Island Peak climbing with Everest Base Camp journey will initiate with the ascending mountain flight to Lukla taking you from 1300 m to 2800 m within a brief half hour time.

The progressive journey will then take you further towards Everest Base Camp where you will steadily gain height with a rest day at Namche to get comfortable with the highland air of Khumbu.

Once you cross the Kala Patthar, you will again journey to surmount the Island Peak Base Camp where you will have one extra day of rest before you assault the summit.

These extra days in between the journey have been incorporated to facilitate the maximum acclimatization of each of our climbers. Still, most of the climbers feel increased breathing and simple headaches which they mistake for altitude sickness.

But, these are always not the indicative signs of AMS but it’s vital to remain vigilant, and you can also consult our experienced climbing guide who can help you with his extensive knowledge.

To further prevent AMS, we suggest you keep hydrating yourself and always maintain your comfortable pace. It is essential that you balance your sugar and salt levels as these can further trigger the other symptoms of AMS such as irritability, blurred vision, muscle spasm, and exhaustion.

So, whenever you have the opportunity, you should fill your bags with dried fruits and salty snacks. If you have even s single sign, please notify our guide who is trained and experienced in managing such events.

He can take you down or delay your travel for a few days; taking Diamox is your individual choice which you must take only if you have no health contraindications.

Preparation and Training for Island Peak climbing

Island Peak is designated as an accessible trekking peak in Nepal, which means it does not pose considerable technical difficulties. However, it remains one of the Himalayan summits that rises over 6000 m where unpredictability is one of the key features.

Additionally, alongside Island Peak climbing, you will also engage in a trekking adventure to EBC and scale the Kala Patthar. Therefore, systematic preparation is essential so you can proficiently face any challenges that may come ahead.

We suggest you commence your preparation six months before your journey. You should begin by evaluating your own weakness and strength then progressively elevate your training regimen.

Utilize every opportunity you get to engage in brief simple hikes or mountain excursions. You can also choose one of the climbing sessions at the gym or engage in rock climbing practice.

Likewise, endurance is one of the utmost factors that you should consider. Endurance helps you to maintain a consistent pace that outweighs the need for speed.

Therefore, you can integrate moderate endurance exercises into your routine several times a week, such as cycling, jogging, squatting, running, etc.

Please, also try to gather insights about the Island Peak or consult those who have already undertaken such expeditions in Nepal, so you can at least know what lies ahead in our journey.

Alternate Routes to Island Peak

The most commonly followed route to the Island summit is from its southern ridge which we will also follow. This route is preferred because of its accessible approach and gradual climb.

However, if you are a more seasoned traveler and adventurous at heart, then you can try approaching the Island summit from its northern ridge counterpart. This route was tried and successfully accomplished in 1958 by the team of Dick Cook, Alf Gregory, and Nepali Sherpas.

This route will be tougher that involves crossing the glaciers of Imja Tse and Lhotse Shar. Thus, proficiency in navigating through the crevasses, ice climbing, and ascending the vertically sharp incline and seracs are a must.

And, if you are looking for a more easier and different path, then you can simply bypass the journey to EBC and Kala Patthar and solely focus on the summit ascent.

This change will help you cut back on your hiking journeys and high-altitude overnight stays. Or, if you think you can add a few more extra days, then you can follow our established travel program and then deviate your route to the remarkable Gokyo Valley.

Island Peak vs Lobuche Peak vs Mera Peak

Island Peak, Lobuche Peak, and Mera Peak are three iconic summits in Nepal that have drawn climbers since the 1950s. Positioned within the territory of stunning Sagarmatha National Park, these peaks are neighbors of each other which are separated from each other by the extensive mountain chain.

Island Peak elevates at 6,165 meters, Mera Peak reaches an impressive 6,476 meters, and Lobuche Peak stands at 6,119 meters. All three are known to be the classic trekking peaks of Nepal that welcome even those who are just starting out their first mountain climbing adventure.

Among the three, however, Mera Peak is the most approachable, while Lobuche Peak presents a tougher challenge. Island Peak lies in the middle, that offers more technical toughness than Mera but less than Lobuche.

Mera Peak is a gentler peak that has very few easy crevasses with no narrow and sharp inclines. On the other hand, the journey to the Island summit means you will have to take on the challenge of deep crevasses and glaciers.

Lobuche Peak is a PD+ mountain that needs robust mountain skills and the right gear than the other two peaks. Therefore, before the summit assault day of Island and Lobuche, pre-climb training is essentially provided.

Mera Peak only involves some rope work, it is less complex than the techniques required for Island or Lobuche Peaks. Thus, Mera Peak is the most gentler one among the trio.

However, all three peaks offer fantastic opportunities for climbers to sharpen their skills before they can go for the ascent of more complex Himalayan giants like Ama Dablam, Kanchenjunga, Dhaulagiri, and even Everest.

Accommodation and Dining

In Kathmandu, you will have three cozy nights in a double room of well well-rated three-star hotel in Kathmandu that comes with a private shower and toilet.

As you go on the trekking and climbing journey, accommodations will vary, with lodges offering different levels of comfort. You may find shared toilets and showers either in the common corridor or outside.

For your overnight stays in the villages, we will provide sleeping bags that you will need to return at the end of the journey. Also, you are welcome to bring your own if you prefer.

During the peak ascent, you will spend two nights in tents that we will supply along with all necessary kitchen equipment. While in Kathmandu, lunches and dinners will be self-catered but on the trek and climb, you will be offered full-board dining options. Our kitchen crew will prepare delicious, hygienic meals during your tent stay.

Transportation

During our Island Peak climbing with EBC journey, you will have the comfort of a private transport service for the transfer in and our services between the airport and your hotel.

You will also have the half-day Kathmandu private excursion in the company of our tour guide, driver, and 4-wheel. We will also look after your Lukla Kathmandu flight arrangements.

If there is a shift of flight to Ramechhap, we will also look after your transfer in a private 4-wheel.

Travel Insurance

Let’s face it, Island Peak climbing is not devoid of dangers. Even the most experienced climbers are prone to injuries during ascents. But sprains, bruises, and fractures are not the only dangers that a climber may face.

In the mountains, there is a risk of suffering from mountain sickness, getting sunburned, or hypothermia. If a climber needs urgent medical care, it can be expensive without insurance.

You will have to pay for everything: a doctor’s examination, X-rays, plaster casts and other procedures, medications, dressings, medical equipment, and in difficult cases, surgeries and every day of hospital stay.

Due to an accident in the mountains, there is also a chance of missing your return flight and literally being left on the street. In addition, there are also other added challenges that are related to natural phenomena typical of the mountains: avalanches, rockfalls, mudflows, glaciers, and glacial crevasses.

With mountaineering and travel insurance, you are protected from large unexpected expenses. If something happens, the insurance company will quickly find a doctor, and organize medical transportation to the clinic, and if necessary, to the homeland.

Consultations, examinations, bandages, operations – everything will be paid for by the insurer. And it will also compensate for the cost of medicines. The insurance company will also cover other expenses related to the insurance event.

Sometimes after an injury, you are not left in the hospital but sent home to recover, but are prohibited from flying. In such a situation, the insurer will pay for the hotel stay so you can wait for your return home in comfortable conditions.

The insurer will also look after the legal assistance as well as in case of theft or loss of documents. They will also manage your visa extension during hospitalization and organize search and rescue operations. Please note that the rescue operations for climbers are very expensive, and it is very difficult to pay for them yourself.

Essential Permits for Island Peak Climbing with Everest Base Camp

For the ascent of the Island Peak, it is indispensable to secure the climbing permit that is provided by the NMA (Nepal Mountaineering Association). Along with the permit, you will also have to make a garbage deposit of 500 USD at NMA.

The other imperative permits that will be needed for the Island Peak climbing with Everest trek are the local municipality permit for the Khumbu region and the park permit for the Sagarmatha (Everest) National Park.

The associated expenses and the procedures will be looked after by our guide.